Longboards for bigger waves

Any discussion on shaping, designing, repairing and riding surfcraft of any type or shape. Also a good place to ask the 'what board should I buy?' question.

Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Roy Stuart » Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:14 am

mister-griffster wrote:
Another of the pointy nosed variety by Christenson - should be right up your street
Image

d'


Rather tempting looking
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Kirk3 » Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:18 pm

Brilliant, these turned up today (via Surfline I believe) Christian Beamish, who is on one of his twin fin guns I believe, getting a good one at Mavs
Chris-Beamish-deep-Nic-Lamb-with-broken-ankle-middle8348-Ryan-Craig-120103.jpg
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and taking a good one at Mavs
Chris-Beamish-caught-inside-8360-Ryan-Craig-120103.jpg
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Photographer is Ryan Craig I believe, and he did a very nice job. Here's another big pointy surfboard since I'm here.
BILD7732.jpg
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Sorry, I promise I'll stop with those now.
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby mal-nourished » Thu Jan 05, 2012 12:19 am

some sweet action here.. :wink: http://youtu.be/4a4l6OUzW9M
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Cuttlefish » Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:06 am

The lack of discernible rocker in those boards didn't seem to be doing them any favours.
Notice the chatter encountered on the second wave ridden and the difficulty of maintaining speed right through their cutbacks?
Man, I'd love to have been on some of those waves.
They looked like a lot of fun.
Imagine what Derek Hynd would have been doing with his favourite finless on those waves!
Hey Kirk,
That last green gun is full enough through the forward 1/2 to keep a longboarder happy I think.
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby royal » Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:11 am

i like the look of guns.

i like the way they feel under my arm.

i like the idea of owning a gun.

the idea of using it however, especially at shark infested, rocky, rippy, cold, and otherwise sketchy spots around here... not so much.


and, I'm ok with that....
learn the rules, so you can break them properly

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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Cuttlefish » Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:36 am

I liked it when Darrick Doerner is talking about surfing Mavericks for the first time in Riding Giants.
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Ferral » Thu Jan 05, 2012 5:03 pm

agree with cuttlefish re. that vid, while the surfing is undoubtedly good, there are a fair few hang ups and the board doesnt seem to fit into the wave well at several occaisons. I wouldnt classify those waves as large either, certainly not requiring a longboard tuned for larger waves.
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby mister-griffster » Thu Jan 05, 2012 6:08 pm

If you've ever seen Kegels boards and his surfing style - it's all about style and being right on the edge of control - his boards are insane - just ask Jory - you may order something but another thing gets spat outta the machine and not necessarily what you were wanting or expecting. The fella certainly ain't about sweet carving roundhouse cutbacks, more like spray chucking whippy pivot turns at mach 10

I have no doubt that the boards don't fit the wave well - kinda like barreling around a bend in a V12 muscle car - the only thing that holds you on your line is your prayers! - hell, it's a blast tho eh!

i love watching the guy ride but don't think i have the skill or lightening quick reflexes needed to make the most of one of his boards

BTW Rob, the best bit about Mav's is it being shark infested - with any luck one of them will take a lump before you have to paddle into one of those mutha's!
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby rodent » Thu Jan 05, 2012 6:17 pm

What exactly do folk class as bigger waves, double over head + :?
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby mal-nourished » Thu Jan 05, 2012 6:39 pm

dont think you can put a number on it but personally i look and if i see someone having to take a paddle on the waveface to get over the back i think big... :-)
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Cuttlefish » Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:53 pm

rodent wrote:What exactly do folk class as bigger waves, double over head + :?

For longboarders could it be when no one is nose riding the waves? :wink:
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby mister-griffster » Fri Jan 06, 2012 11:02 pm

Personally, as a longboarder - 3ft - get to 4ft and I'm in the car park hiding behind the bins... nah, not really :roll: - from a longboard perspective I'd say anything over head high, the point where you know your noserider is no longer going to do the business.. the title is longboard fo 'bigger' waves in the sense that they are 'bigger' than your average day, not for 'big' waves i.e. Eddie Aikau 'big'

Simply put the point where you have to change up from your standard log and looking for something a bit more 'positive' for the conditions but still a log (though I'm happy that the thread has taken in other forms of longboards)
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby kayu » Sat Jan 07, 2012 2:42 am

I think noseriders are strictly "under head high machines"......I'm getting close to 60 y/o and theres some breaks I would still surf over 10ft without a thought , and other breaks that scare me when they get over 3ft!.. :lol: .....If i can get to the take off zone without gettin hammered its happiness...
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby mal-nourished » Sat Jan 07, 2012 2:51 am

kayu makes a very valid point with his statement some breaks he would surf 10ft no worries and others even at 3ft scarey...example guethary 3x overhead do able graviere head high plus scarey unless you have tweaked your equipment..here in the uk large saunton as opposed overhead plus low tide croyde... 8)
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Roy Stuart » Sat Jan 07, 2012 3:38 am

Well the thread started by specifying 'bigger' as 'head high plus' which is pretty open ended and includes a wide range of sizes.
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby mal-nourished » Sat Jan 07, 2012 11:23 am

even that is open to interpetation what if your a dwarf...if your looking at uk conditions specifically in particular beachbreaks the bigger conditions i would class as headhigh plus up to double and a half outside of that unless your talking specific bigger wave spots like the cribbar the vast majority of our beaches dont take a big swell and there is factors like the paddle out rips which you have to take on board ..i think longboard shortboard bodyboard or whatever it comes down to the individual and what you are comfortable with and what gives you the confidence to surf waves outside of our average mid range swells ...ideally i would say a hybrid longboard gun type board is the way to go as the size increases... 8) on a personal level i have found over the years sometimes you have to hold your hands up and say you know what that is not a longboard wave and im not taking to the water... :cry: as i have stated wind chop rips your ability and condition are as much factors as equipment choice ...
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby mal-nourished » Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:09 pm

the 9ft 6 baby gun featured earlier in the shaping bay at tylers ... :wink:
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby kayu » Sun Jan 08, 2012 5:38 am

mal-nourished wrote:the 9ft 6 baby gun featured earlier in the shaping bay at tylers ... :wink:

I love waves like that !!!!....a beachy somewhere?
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby mal-nourished » Sun Jan 08, 2012 6:27 am

yes sweet wave ... :wink: south bay area los angeles [ el porto area..] i have a friend just done a road trip over cali they have been scoring bigtime ... 8)
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby monkeystyle » Fri Jan 20, 2012 3:05 am

mmm... quick thread hijack.

This is the most amazing and rediculous footage of Chopes that I have ever seen - it is the best surf film I have ever seen - awe inspiring. My heart's still beating fast and I had to get it on here!!!

It's from the videos section of the surferpath magazine's site....

http://video.mpora.com/watch/5Pgs2slxu/hd/

faaaaarrrrkkkk!!!!!!
I was called off a wave by a hipster who looked like Leo Sayer... whats with the ironic moustache look?
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby monkeystyle » Fri Jan 20, 2012 3:12 am

I reckon that Roy's boards cold take it!!!
I was called off a wave by a hipster who looked like Leo Sayer... whats with the ironic moustache look?
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Roy Stuart » Fri Jan 20, 2012 3:49 am

Well, those multi fin setups are not helping their situation, such boards have a tendency to get sucked up the face initially when trying to turn down the face.
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby zboy » Fri Jan 20, 2012 7:25 pm

hats off to any one who surfs 10 ft and beyond (10 ft being 5 times the height of my vw t5 thats what a shaper in clare who shapes guns for himself t.lowe f. smith and a bunch of others told me what his 10 ft is)fair play to you kayu. :-)
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Roy Stuart » Fri Jan 20, 2012 8:39 pm

How idiotic, 10 feet is 120 inches, you are using doublespeak and believing it.
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Rickyroughneck » Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:55 pm

zboy wrote:hats off to any one who surfs 10 ft and beyond (10 ft being 5 times the height of my vw t5 thats what a shaper in clare who shapes guns for himself t.lowe f. smith and a bunch of others told me what his 10 ft is)fair play to you kayu. :-)

So your vw t5 is 2ft tall? I guess you save on petrol at least :D

Could you use a real scale, such as face height (i.e. the part of the wave which is actually surfed)
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby grubster » Fri Jan 20, 2012 10:59 pm

monkeystyle wrote:I reckon that Roy's boards cold take it!!!



Roys board wouldnt stand a chance out there :roll:
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Roy Stuart » Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:20 pm

incorrect
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby grubster » Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:25 pm

The chances of roys board ever paddling out there are zero


So I am correct 8)
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby Roy Stuart » Sat Jan 21, 2012 6:14 am

Your premise is incorrect, presuming of course that you mean "being paddled out there" ... the board is not self propelled.
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Re: Longboards for bigger waves

Postby kayu » Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:37 am

Roy Stuart wrote: ... the board is not self propelled.

..nor is it self-promoting :-|
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