Leedsol wrote:I had a board crease in arugam, local fixed it up real nice, couple of embedded splints and reglassed along the crease, lasted a few more years until it snapped, worth doing, got mine done for about £30
swiggy wrote:Ok. I'm going to try and fix it, see what happens. I get the feeling it isn't going to be the same, but looking down it carefully it is still straight, I've seen creased and snapped boards either kink or twist as the glass breaks and that screws them up. Hopefully I can get the glass to match the concaves, glad I've got a power sander. Worst case I have a back up board to lend out/keep in the car for when I damage others, I seem to be pretty hard on boards and I can't afford to keep buying more.
surfrat wrote:worth a go fixing it, it's good practice. try and get a router to get nice straight lines on cutting out the old glass. lots of filler. and powersander will save your arms for sure!
good luck with repair. you can always use it as a board for heavier spots not having to worry if it breaks.
then get some posca pens/spray paint and cover it all up somehow
Rickyroughneck wrote:Get more glass on your future boards, making them 10-20% heavier is a small price to pay for double the life expectancy. Team boards are for team riders who don't pay for them, so it doesn't matter how often they break them.
coxie wrote:Feather all those hard edges where good glass meets foam down with the sander and if you can make them so they are not straight lines.Sand off all the top coat of resin down to the weave for around 18 inches past the damage same on the rails and deck.
Use as little filler as possible to fill the dents in the foam ( Heaps of filler won't flex and just crack) and then level them off.
Don't bother doing anything with the stringer, splints and dowling etc do nothing really.
When you re glass cut your cloth into big diamond shaped patches, that way you will spread the load up the board and it will be less likely to crack where new glass meets old.
One patch on the bottom will be ok if the board has a nice concave, if it is a flat bottom then maybe two.
Do two patches on your deck, do one large patch first then make your second patch around 5 inches smaller.
Make sure the weave of the new cloth is nice and straight nose to tail and pay special attention not to sand through your new glass on the rails as this is where you want it nice and strong after the repair.
Should be all good.
Good luck bud![]()
Give me a ring if you get stuck, numbers on the website
Wish i had a few like this in the workshop, school holidays are here and i'm sick of fixing shitty cortez and take off mini mals.


Cuttlefish wrote:Any advice on how to fix this minor delam?
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I've got a 5 litre tin of wood glue on standby.
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