Werwulf1919 wrote:Nice...are you doing them from scratch or a kit ?
mister-griffster wrote:Haven't been keeping my eye on the threads recently - that looks a lovely Log Pam - as a pig officiando I'd love to have a ride report on that one! - judging by the dims that's one semi-pig that should do the business at Saunton - tho I'd be very tempted to take it round the corner and see what Croyde could offer up
Great effort Pam
Jory wrote:The reality is a lot of people ride longboards but wish they were on shortboards, here included. It's much easier to pretend you are Kelly slater on a progressive crutch, sorry longboard. Plus they are easier to surf/ turn if you don't / can't move your feet. Not so many people are as interested in the style and grace of a traditional approach or the time it takes to develop your surfing this way. Without some skills, pigs are just that (or possibly dogs) to surf!
As for people waking up to the sim thing. They will once you can buy one without making it yourself or going to an obscure/overseas shaper. The same thing happened with the keel fish and the speedialer quad, once Gulfstream started making them they sold like hot cakes . Now they are really a mainstream shape but to get my first keel I had to get Jools to template a board shaped by a visiting Hawaiian (jim blears beat nuuhiwa on a fish in THAT world champs!) in the 70's that resides in a guy in woolacombes Collection. That was only about 7 or 8 years ago
I keep cajoling Jools about shaping some sims, I think they'd sell well but until he gets around to riding one of mine he's not enthused enoUgh to find time in his super busy schedule. I know he'll be hooked once he tries!
In reality most people here just go surfing and don't spend hours taking the pulse of Internet surf hipsterdom so their horizons remain narrow for longer!
Jory wrote:the whole progressive board came out of people like bill stewart trying to apply the knowledge gained during the evoloution of shortboards in the 80's to longer boards so they could work for older / fatter people without being tankers. At the time anyone one on a proper old style longboard would have been ridiculed, clark hardly made any big blanks. The "neo traditional" movement we are now in the middle of only happened to a large degree as a result of tudor and his friends becoming bored with riding light longboards and inspired by riding vintage logs bought at thrift sales in the late 90's. a "scene" developed around malibu and elsewhere and that spread.Thomas campbell's seedling movie was very influential in that regard
Officially longboard contests have always been judged 50/50 on prog and traditional moves but as the traditional movement of knost, warren, tudor etc has grown and become less interested in contests so the contest judging seems to have veered towards rewarding progressive surfing more.
At the time anyone one on a proper old style longboard would have been ridiculed, clark hardly made any big blanks. The "neo traditional" movement we are now in the middle of only happened to a large degree as a result of tudor and his friends becoming bored with riding light longboards and inspired by riding vintage logs
In reality it's partly about fashion and which part of the tribe you want to belong to and it's also about what lines you imagine drawing on the wave and how you want your surfing to feel.
What is authentic and what is eponymous, true authenticity is displayed only in the evolutionary process of thought. Nothing is new, nothing is real, but every creative consideration creates authenticity.
The shortboard movement / prog log has been hi-jacked by corporate sponsors / marketing asses and therefore is repulsive to those who seek 'soul' surfing. The 'soul' surfing marketeers are somewhat more cunning setting themselves as individuals, producing 'underground' movies, seeking 'weird' shapes - but it's all still part of the big financial merry-go-round.
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