Can anyone please help me? I'm a bodyboarder and a beginner surfer. I'm 5'7" and 60kg and have an epoxy 6'10" mini mal (recommended by an instructor in Devon). I'm based on the south coast and I head down to the water whenever it's surfable (not very often, haha). I'm pretty much going out in 2-3 ft surf - we haven't had anything bigger than that here for a while.
I don't have a problem catching waves. I can pop up just about OK most of the time, too. My problem is staying ahead of the whitewater and actually covering ground (or water). I can angle my board and ride along the face a little way as it breaks, and that's fine for a split second or two, but then I stall and the ride just finishes: the whitewater overtakes me and I end up on the back of the board with the nose sticking way up out of the water. Ultimately I fall off the back of the board.
I'm not sure what's happening. The obvious thing would be that I'm not putting enough weight forward on the board. I've tried to shift my weight forward more and swing my front foot further forward (and pearled the board a shedload of times in the process! yey) but the board doesn't seem to plane right. I did wonder whether this is just normal when the swell isn't very powerful (if you're familiar with surf-forecast.com "max energy" ratings, the waves where I am are rated around 25-30 on average at the moment). I broke a fin the other day when I rode too far into the beach, so it's not like I'm not going somewhere... Confused! Can't help feeling that I'm blaming my tools, though, and am determined to work this one out
I'd be really grateful for any tips. Thanks.