one step forward, two steps back?

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one step forward, two steps back?

Postby vacateistheword » Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:13 pm

Hi!
I've been surfing since June at an average of 3-4 times a week.
Started on a Superfish 6'8 then switched to a 6'2x20" board(pretty much the shape of a performance shortboard but with wider outline) and have been using that since October.
The place I surf only starts working at 4 feet at least.
I've heard that learning to surf is like taking two steps forward and one back.
It's been more like one step forward and two steps back.
Has that happened to any of y'all?
As soon as I started going down lines I switched to this smaller board.
I've ridden two (Two!!) waves properly since I got this smaller board (October)
I used to be able to stand crouched, now I am kneeling. I did it wrong once about two weeks ago and now it's all I can do.
What keeps me going is remembering that feeling of going down the line,
but I am really just getting more and more frustrated.
Is this normal?
Help ... please
Share with me your experience.
vacateistheword
 
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Re: one step forward, two steps back?

Postby KIMBALINOS » Tue Dec 14, 2010 12:36 pm

I call it the fear.....Like you do it once and it sticks with you for a while....actually it's progress, your thinking of more things now, I found going shorter, there's a few more things to think about, and it's usually positioning, it's just so much more important, and if you think back to what you were riding (waves and quality) back when you just started getting it your just not happy with those sort of rides anymore.....that's what I tell myself anyhoo.......do you know what I mean....there was probably a point in which you just wanted to go down the line....and found it frustrating that you coudn't, and then it was what are you gonna do on the wave that's the prob......and through all this you got to deal with different tyupes of waves, being in the right place is so important, where as before it didn't really matter you board was gunna catch it and you really didn't care what kind of wave it was....but now you do....it's all progress ther's always a funny lull and then it just makes sence, but by that time something else will be frustrating you!!! but most important is that you can let go and just enjoy being in the water !!!
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Re: one step forward, two steps back?

Postby bombie » Tue Dec 14, 2010 4:58 pm

I suspect you need to work on your pop up and may need to go a bit more aggro with it - once you make a few your confidence will pick up and you'll be fine.

Practise your pop up on land until you've got it nailed (do it 20 times a day for a week and you'll improve heaps); then paddle harder to get more speed and make the timing easier. You may need to lie a little closer to the nose of the board, the effect is to shift your weight down the board and this causes it to slide down the face rather than off the back of the wave.

Things to consider for the pop-up:
1. place your trailing hand (ie backfoot side) a bit further toward the tail than the leading hand (which should be about under your shoulder) - this opens up your chest and gives you more room to swing your front foot into - about 1 handspan should be enough but you can experiment when practising to see what works

2. keep your hands flat on the deck, fingers pointing forwards - not grasping the rails (if you grasp the rail you're likely to apply pressure on the rail and this will make the board unstable) - delay rising up for a second or two and you can keep your hands in contact with the board to help stability (ie as a point of contact with the board but not grasping onto it)

3. use timing if it helps - ie count 1 2 3 in time with your final strokes and on three pop up and go and immediately be looking to the next section on the wave (and not concentrating on the pop up).

If you blow a couple of waves don't get discouraged - you're still learning and should expect to make mistakes. But, you'll need to start developing a consistent, fluid and one step pop up on the board - and you won't do that if you allow yourself to do it as a 2 step manoeuvre or by riding on your knees.

You'll be right - but if the 6'2" continues to give you the shits go back to the 6'8" and have fun on it until you're comfortable you've got a good pop up.
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Re: one step forward, two steps back?

Postby lewy » Sun Dec 19, 2010 11:33 pm

Sounds like you need to go back to a bigger board - or a board with more foam - thicker or wider. Spend a few months catching waves again and start to build your confidence and your wave knowledge/experience. There are lots of beginning surfers out there who are surfing on boards that are too short and too thin for their level of ability/fitness. Get a more forgiving shape and you'll catch more waves and learn faster because you'll be doing more surfing rather than just paddling. You'll have more fun too.
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Re: one step forward, two steps back?

Postby flacky » Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:42 am

An average 6'2 is going to feel like a skateboard. I've used a 6'2 thruster in the past and I just don't like the feel that boards so short give you. You have to react very quickly on such a short board. You also have to work harder on it.
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