nightmare learning

Any questions about learning to surf, or general questions about equipment, technique or improving your surfing.

nightmare learning

Postby brynn3006 » Wed Dec 29, 2010 6:39 pm

Hi,
I would really appreciate some advice. I've been learning to surf for about a year. I've ridden an 8ft minimal until the end of the summer and progressed very well to be at the point of looking at turning the board. However, being stupid, I was finding turning the board difficult and decided that as I have a history of surfing waveskis prior to boards, and generally like some projected bottom and top turns, I might like something with a bit more performance. In the hopes of not pushing things too far, I bought a 7'2" Tiki Sumo which is basically a high volume, fat fish (22" wide just about) with a quad set up. the board is fine and i can ride it but it doesn't have much volume in the nose and is a bit on the trippy side. I've managed ok so far but have just been out for a month with flu etc... Now, I feel like a complete novice again. I'm struggling to stay standing and am having to concentrate a lot on exactly where I'm placing my feet, and to be honest, am doing a naff job. Now, I'm not sure whether to go back to the Mal and enjoy surfing again (but get frustrated at trying to ride steep waves on a long board) but possibly change it from a thruster set up to twins, or to change the fish to a thruster set up to make it more stable (not sure if this will help). To be honest, I feel like I'm grabbing at straws as I'm totally frustrated that I'm never going to get past travelling in a straight line, if I can even get back to that stage again. Please help! I would appreciate advice on whether the change of fin set ups on either board will make that much difference and whether at a year of learning, I should be doing better than this.

thanks
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Re: nightmare learning

Postby Black » Wed Dec 29, 2010 8:05 pm

If you are not a natural ripper it is a nightmare learning. I've been learning for a lifetime (literally) - today I went to stand & ended up sat on the board with legs stretched out in front, I didn't know whether to laugh or cry! Don't worry about the fin setups. For mortals its one step forward two steps back. Just keep trying, sometimes it clicks & then unclicks for no reason. If there are any people around turning big boards well, have a good look & see what they are doing.
Good luck.
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Re: nightmare learning

Postby helston90 » Wed Dec 29, 2010 8:16 pm

You're probably just going to get a load of echoing comments.

You've done the right thing staying larger whilst learning so do what works for you and makes you happy- it's not all about the ripping, I've sometimes only had a few good waves in a 2/3 hour ice cold sesh but it's all worth it for those good waves, just keep trying!
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Re: nightmare learning

Postby brynn3006 » Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:14 am

Thanks very much guys, your comments actually make me feel a lot better. I'll keep at it but I don't think I'm ever going to be a good surfer. If I can enjoy it again, then it's worth keeping going.

Thanks again
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Re: nightmare learning

Postby surfinsmiler » Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:21 pm

Just to echo what Black says,keep at it and it will all come together.The more you practice the better you will get.A word of warning, the better you get the poorer you will become,earning a living takes second place to the obsession of surfing.I should know,after a solid year of surfing I was pretty good and looking to start some morre radical moves etc. I'm still paying for that year today as reality struck and food on the table regained the upper hand in my life.So I'm older and well fed but my surfing has remained static and after a long flat spell regressed to kook -ness at times.Wanna get real good? Be prepared to sacrifice stuff like money,relationships,family etc.
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Re: nightmare learning

Postby Finster » Sun Jan 16, 2011 4:27 am

I think you should go back to riding the minmal and just have fun again. There's no reason why you can't turn on a minimal. Sure the turns aren't as quick, but you should still be able to perform bottom turns, cutbacks and top turns. They're just slower turns.
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Re: nightmare learning

Postby skimmer2 » Sun Jan 16, 2011 7:41 am

Like me - you need to concentrate on getting as many waves as possible - only way you wil learn and have fun with it. Stay with the miniaml until you feel fit enough or have the skills to drop down. You will know when that is.
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Re: nightmare learning

Postby brynn3006 » Sun Jan 16, 2011 8:58 am

Really good advice and it's made a difference. I've gone back to the mini mal and am having a great time. I'm dropping off the waves now and running along them ok. I'm having a scream trying to work on turning as I'm up and down the board now and spending half my time falling off. Fun though. Have decided to sell my smaller board as it's practically new and I think I'll look later inthe year at something more like the Mal but a bit more responsive - and that looks less like a beginners board (not that I'm vain or anything :wink: ) I've no idea what to go for but I'll worry about that later. Thanks again! :-)
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Re: nightmare learning

Postby well-chilled-out » Sun Jan 16, 2011 8:46 pm

Brynn, Unless you bought it without their advise, the shop that sold you a Quad set up for learning should hold their head in shame for selling you that board...The quad set up is a beautiful set up but requires a real good standard to get the best out of it, that & great waves to get those powerful turns in that the quad fins love. They're all about 'drive' dude. In normal conditions & where most learners are, inshore slop, the fins will feel stubborn....Basically, buy a board you CAN stand up on & improve slowly..Unless you're a lightweight or grom, even a mini mal can feel too tippy when learning. Too many people buy them 'cause they fit in a car not because it's the right board to be on..Bad Call...Think your size & height, if you're tall/heavier built then a 9ft longboard will have the same or better stability for you as a lightweight on an 8ft mini mal.
Volume,volume , volume is the name of the game when learning...Better to progress quickly on a bigger board than floundering in the shore break on too small a board.This is why surf schools use high volume boards. Of course you can go shorter if you so desire once the basics are mastered.
Never be swayed by media hype about fins etc. You probably will never be the next Kelly Slater so progress slowly & have fun..Surfing is a lifetime of learning.
It takes a lot of guts but ask guys on the beach as well where you surf. Most are stoked you ask for advise...Do it when they're coming in though rather than going out ! :wink:
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Re: nightmare learning

Postby brynn3006 » Sun Jan 16, 2011 9:32 pm

Thanks so much for the advice. Fortunately, I'm riding the Mal ok now and having a lot of fun I'm just reluctant to continue riding a plank for too much longer. I changed to a shorter board recently but it was too soon and too much change. If I'm ever to have a different board now, I'm really looking for an 8' -8'6" board ( will fit in the van ) with a bit more performance. Otherwise, I'll stay where I am. Great fun on a good board at present is all I can ask for.
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