Bollox. I just wrote an essay and it deleted it. You lucky buggers.
Anyway, gist was... That pic was in a mag, was a good read. Surfer's Path?
Confidence is massive in surfing. Keep your confidence up, you deserve to be out back if you respect other surfers and the ocean. No one out back gives a shit your there, any inferiority is in your mind. Don't back down on waves that come your way and your less likely to get dropped in on and snaked. A wipe out and a laugh is always better than a wasted wave. Communicate, ask it the surfer inside you is going to make a move for that approaching wave. Chances are they may not fancy it and any delay in getting paddling could cost you that wave. Don't give stink eye just because your not getting any.
Look at the wave over your shoulder as it's approaching you. Always know where you are in relation to it's path and where you want to be on it.
As the wave doesn't have the whitewater to push you, you will need to work harder to catch the bugger.
Keep your board's nose 1-2" out the water at all times. If you are nose diving it's because you aren't paddling hard enough or you are too far forward on your board. Is that nose really just out of the water? Move forward again. Now paddle harder.
Don't splash at the water. Deep, long strokes... errr....
Don't look at your feet, look at the wave and where you want to go.
Don't look at your feet
Learn the rules
Respect the ocean and others
Watch the surf for 30mins before paddling out.
How many surfers, how good are they, are they getting many waves, if not, why not? Is everyone paddling to stay in position. How many waves in a set, how often the set ... any more...?
To save your self getting drilled on the inside more. Where a watch and time how often the big sets come. Remember to paddle out further when one is due. Count the waves in a set and try to catch the last or final ones. Saves getting mashed by the rest if you fuck up on the 1st one.
Learn to triangulate using land markers. Good to know your position in the sea.
Try and get out on days where the whitewater isn't big or long enough to surf. After that lost essay, thats all I can offer now. Good luck. Hope it's all too hard for you and you give up and leave more waves for me. If not, see you out back