when to head out back?

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when to head out back?

Postby baggins » Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:46 pm

Hello
Just wondered if I could get some advice about heading further out.
At present I walk out to about shoulder high depth and jump on my board for waves.
I am popping up to my feet and catching waves plenty.
On most sessions I get a few rides where I ride down the line across the face of a wave.
My question is whens the right tieme to head further out to the bigger waves.
This is also where I see other surfers lining up n chilling out.
Sometimes I feel a bit in the way if they get a long tide that ends up closer to the shores near me.
I sometimes surf alone but mostly with buddies. No disrespect to my buddies but I feel a strong desire urge to press on and push my surfing progression a bit further.
I have not mastered the bottom turn yet but it looks ad though it may be easier on the waves further out that don't get steep as quick as the ones closer to shore...? Maybe that's just the surfers making it look easier than it really is?

I have had a few paddles further out and experienced rips which thankfully I remembered to paddle to the side (still was a bit of a scare at the time tbh)
When did you surfers start heading further out back?

I was wondering if I should maybe consider booking a 1 on 1 surfing lesson and ask then about heading out back... Good idea?
Appreciate any advice on the above
Thanks a lot
Philbo
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Re: when to head out back?

Postby Philshoz » Tue Mar 06, 2012 7:06 am

I just love this section of the MSW community, cheers me right up...........

Go out there mate, take a few on the noggin', drop in on someone, become a man!!!!!

Your 'buddies' are holding you back, btw. Time to nut it up and explore some real waves.
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Re: when to head out back?

Postby Black » Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:28 am

Yes, just go for it. Choose a cleaner more manageable day maybe. Because you've been pushing off from standing you will find your paddle timing & strength are lacking. I would always say to beginners, even if you are in waist deep water it would be best to paddle for waves to build those essential skills.
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Re: when to head out back?

Postby baggins » Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:52 am

cheers Black

I've been paddling well ahead of the wave approaching - try to get 5 paddles in to get the board moving and when I feel the board move I get another 3 in for good measure!

I expected the 'man up' replies to be honest its the most obvious thing I guess. i think in my case I do need to build the confidence again as a couple of years ago i got run over on a big day. Turned out I was ok after some magic stitch glue courtesy of A&E but it's always there in the back of my mind how lucky I was. I think your right Black about choosing a clean day to get out there, hopefully the paddle power and strength will increase as a result.

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Re: when to head out back?

Postby ATTMFKH » Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:28 am

Aye mate - just do what Black said..... paddle out , watch where the good surfers are positioned , stay out their way & watch where they start to paddle, their positioning , how late they take-off etc....... watch what's going on for a while , BEWARE THE SNEAKER SET :wink:

Once you're comfortable with what's going on out there, you can go for one of the smaller waves that the rabid pack let through ....... a smile & alright how's it goin' .. goes a long way. or.... just paddle back inside and go back to where you might normally sit, safe in the knowledge that you've been out there and will go back out later or on another day......

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Re: when to head out back?

Postby baggins » Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:51 am

wicked tips cheers guys

love that picture - must be a great psycher upper on your way out for a session that piece
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Re: when to head out back?

Postby Poo Stance » Tue Mar 06, 2012 2:47 pm

Bollox. I just wrote an essay and it deleted it. You lucky buggers.

Anyway, gist was... That pic was in a mag, was a good read. Surfer's Path?

Confidence is massive in surfing. Keep your confidence up, you deserve to be out back if you respect other surfers and the ocean. No one out back gives a shit your there, any inferiority is in your mind. Don't back down on waves that come your way and your less likely to get dropped in on and snaked. A wipe out and a laugh is always better than a wasted wave. Communicate, ask it the surfer inside you is going to make a move for that approaching wave. Chances are they may not fancy it and any delay in getting paddling could cost you that wave. Don't give stink eye just because your not getting any.

Paddle hard
Paddle early
Look at the wave over your shoulder as it's approaching you. Always know where you are in relation to it's path and where you want to be on it.
As the wave doesn't have the whitewater to push you, you will need to work harder to catch the bugger.
Keep your board's nose 1-2" out the water at all times. If you are nose diving it's because you aren't paddling hard enough or you are too far forward on your board. Is that nose really just out of the water? Move forward again. Now paddle harder.
Don't splash at the water. Deep, long strokes... errr....
Don't look at your feet, look at the wave and where you want to go.
Paddle harder
Don't look at your feet
Learn the rules
Respect the ocean and others
Watch the surf for 30mins before paddling out.
How many surfers, how good are they, are they getting many waves, if not, why not? Is everyone paddling to stay in position. How many waves in a set, how often the set ... any more...?

To save your self getting drilled on the inside more. Where a watch and time how often the big sets come. Remember to paddle out further when one is due. Count the waves in a set and try to catch the last or final ones. Saves getting mashed by the rest if you fuck up on the 1st one.

Learn to triangulate using land markers. Good to know your position in the sea.

Try and get out on days where the whitewater isn't big or long enough to surf. After that lost essay, thats all I can offer now. Good luck. Hope it's all too hard for you and you give up and leave more waves for me. If not, see you out back :-D
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Re: when to head out back?

Postby ATTMFKH » Tue Mar 06, 2012 3:02 pm

Hey Poo - yeah the pic was in TSP a couple of issues back on an article about fear of big waves , think the upshot was just do it - unwire the don't go neural network in the brain , disengage 1,000's of years of survival evolution and basically throw yourself over the edge ......

The vision in my brain when I'm taking the drop on a big one is standing on a branch up a tree made of water , kinda makes me smile until I'm cartwheeling down the face, not braking the surface then going for a ride with the lip :lol: :lol:
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Re: when to head out back?

Postby Poo Stance » Tue Mar 06, 2012 3:56 pm

My brain has yet to comprehend riding big waves. Last time i was out back and it was too big I was like... err.... where the fuck do I sit to catch these monsters.....errr.... when do I start paddling for them.... ok... I'll just paddle for the horizon for the next 40mins while I formulate an exit strategy.... Ok... set's passed, start paddling in.... right here comes the next set.... paddle for life to catch wave.... bear hug board as I bounce down the face and get smashed by the white water.... climb leash and repeat x3... crawl onto beach. Double overhead just seems like a different activity altogether. Fitness and wave selection are so much more important and I just don't get in often enough to have the confidence to tackle it. One day maybe, but I'm on the decline now so maybe not.
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Re: when to head out back?

Postby wjp1 » Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:21 pm

Poo Stance wrote:... where the fuck do I sit to catch these monsters.....errr.... when do I start paddling for them.... ok... I'll just paddle for the horizon for the next 40mins while I formulate an exit strategy.... Ok... set's passed, start paddling in.... right here comes the next set.... paddle for life to catch wave.... bear hug board as I bounce down the face and get smashed by the white water.... climb leash and repeat x3... crawl onto beach.


:lol: :lol: so true. (and for me smaller than double ahread)
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