I have been surfing for two years, stared in Oz and then Bali for a few months. I am confident in popping and dropping pretty heavy waves and in over head i dont have the problem i will describe in a moment. I am goofy
Board - i had a 6'4 - 20 1/2 - 2 5/8 in bali, im a big guy, 6'4 myself. it was a quad, i have recently moved to Peru and bought a new board, 6'0 20 - 2 5/8 so a fair bit less floaty.
Problem - i have up untill recently been alot happier going left on my front side, latley i have been in some big right hand surf and have been very pleased with how im coping. my pop and drop on a right has improved alot. Thing is, in smaller surf when going right i loose my speed. I drop, run down a fair bit as they are slow breaking waves here, i then do my heel turn, all good, as i come back to the wall to do a top turn the board seems to bog and slow and often the wave passes under me, it used to happen oin my bigger board and seems to be worse on the smaller board.
I think i am coming back to the face where it is still to fat and far away from the curl, i also think i am weighting my back foot to much for too long and not shifting forward to drop back in.
has anyone got any tips as to what i am doig wrong, or has anyone else had the same problem and fixed them selfs.
thanks for your time
i know this is going left but you can kinda see the problem a little, as it sometimes happens when im going left, also gives you an insight in to my level of surfing. not high i know lol