by 0lly » Wed Feb 27, 2013 4:46 am
As a kid i surfed a long board, and eventually moved onto a shortboard. Well at age 11 or so i had a wipe out and was nearly blinded in my right eye when the nose hit my face. I never truly got over the fear, so when i grew out of my surfboard i got a boadyboard and began boog with my buds who mainly rode shorebreak. Still, i never got that into it and always had the lingering fear. Well as of recent i have been craving to surf again, and my buddy offered up a 6'2" shortboard that he had. Im about 6'1" and a 150lbs so i figured that i can relearn on this board until im committed enough to buy something that fits me better. Now i have a reason to surf, but whenever i am given to chance to go out and practice by myself, i have no motivation. I then get hit up by my buddies who are going out tomorrow morning since a swell is hitting and i just feel extremely uncomfortable even going out to bodyboard. I dont feel ready to get thrown on a big wave, yet i cant find the motivation to go out and learn to surf mainly because im unsure if ill be able to learn on the board i have.