rip tide

Any questions about learning to surf, or general questions about equipment, technique or improving your surfing.

rip tide

Postby phil83 » Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:59 pm

Was surfing today bang in the middle of the beach next think I spotted rocks around me and was at the other end of the beach had to climb over the rocks to get out board took a crack aswell for my troubles anyone got advice on rip tides and noard repair whilst at it
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Re: rip tide

Postby dermo909 » Fri May 03, 2013 2:17 pm

There's a couple of things your should be aware of when you are surfing.

Always watch your position relative to the beach. Line yourself up against something on the beach and stay in front of it. If its windy you might get blown across the beach or if there's a slight side current then you'll be pushed out of position. After you catch a wave you'll often be out of position too. Always paddle back so you are in line with the object again. Yes I know this can be tiring but you have to do it! You'll find yourself in trouble otherwise.

Next time you are in the water, watch a good surfer. They'll always paddle back to the same spot constantly. Compare this to novice surfers who will always get dragged down the beach by the wind or current!

Regarding rips, when water comes in with a wave it has to go back out again. If there's a deeper gully in between 2 sand banks then that's where the water will flow out. Usually the waves don't break as cleanly in a rip and the water often looks rippled or bumpy. You may think this calmer water is safer but its not. If you are caught in a rip, paddle across it to where there are more waves. I know this seems counter-intuitive but this is what you need to do.

If you notice you are in a rip, don't panic. Just jump up on the board and paddle across the beach so you are out of it. You don't need to paddle like your life depends on it, just paddle nice and calmly across.

This vid gives a nice representation of rips: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkObAXrjpzs Try to spot the bumpy water and notice where the waves are not breaking as cleanly.

Main thing is though to watch your position!!! Constantly look over your shoulder to spot where you are and don't be lazy. Get out of the water and walk back up the beach if you need to. There's no shame in it.
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Re: rip tide

Postby phil83 » Sun May 05, 2013 10:08 pm

Thanks mate thats sound advice and ill take that on board appreciate it
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Re: rip tide

Postby Rickyroughneck » Fri May 10, 2013 12:20 am

If you surf a big long beach break like me, try and catch waves in the opposite direction to the longshore drift. Saves on paddling.
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Re: rip tide

Postby Grrr42 » Fri May 31, 2013 3:20 pm

I learned this the hard way at Manorbier beach in Pembrokeshire, on what was probably only my 4th time surfing... My mate had left me on my own and gone out back.

Was walking out in the white water in the middle of the fairly small beach, when all of a sudden I was sucked out of my depth and panicking, I couldn't stay balanced on my board to paddle into a wave and ended up being smushed onto the rocks. Lost a fin and cut my feet and hands up pretty bad.

My advice if you're not an experienced surfer is to take into account everything that's been said above, and if you have the opportunity, do a bit of research if you're surfing a break you've not been to before. A lot of beaches have reviews and some are notorious for rips in certain spots.
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Location: Knowstone, Devon

Re: rip tide

Postby dermo909 » Sat Jun 01, 2013 8:39 am

If you are not sure, just ask some of the other surfers or the lifeguards about the local dangers.

If you are in doubt, stay on the beach.
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Re: rip tide

Postby conjohn » Thu Jul 18, 2013 1:39 pm

I try to take these out to the lineup. They're kind of like natures conveyor belt. But I don't surf on a beach with heavy rocks or heavy surf so it's not that big of a deal. If I'm actually endangering myself y'all let me know. But so far no problems.
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