Great to see a lot of the planet represented here. Whilst we live in different places the currents unite us all! Me i m 42 and been surfig for 32 years. I ride short boards a longboard and a 1973 single fin rhino chaser when the times right. I Still froth like a grommet the hint of a surf and even more nowdays as the opportunities to surf have gone from multiple surfs a week to opportunistic ( at least once a weekwheconditions allow) with parenthood and having to grow up a little ( only a little mind you ). Family life ismade easier with a family that loves the beachad the urfing lifestyle.When there's no waves i ride my Harleywhich is my other passion.
I live on the South Coast of Western Australia and we are pretty spoilt down here wave wise, More beachies and points than Reef where im from but i make up for that wth at least 2 trips to Bali a year, One with the Family and one with the Boys purely surfing and every other opportuity we get. When there, we stay mainly on Bali and Nusa Lembongan. Gave all the other Islands a thrashing in the younger days and apart from the ever increasing crowds love the Bukit particularly Ulu's and Padang Padang cant get bored with either even after 20 years. The crowds i can handle but blatant droop ins will see me turn into a nasty boy, something i havent even tried to correct, drop in om me more than once and i will hurt you
Other than that im a realy jovial nice guy
Its great to see a range of people here from different countries, from old sea dogs to the new crew to the sport and my advise to those just startig or thinking of it..... Stick at it ...... surfing so rewarding in sooo many ways but having said that flat spells and crap conditions can test your mantle.
Remember it only takes ONE epic wave to make your day,week and possibly year! I still mentally re-live several waves from my lifes surfing journey and one wave i continuously reflect on is from over 20 years ago, another from last month!
So...... all in all thanks for having me on board keep the stoke,thanks for sharing your world,keep the world clean (especially the ocean and beaches), dont judge others,encourage those new to the art,be generous to those less fortunate than you and dont drop in and if you do and get punished.... get over it you deserve it!