conyoman wrote:any tips on throwing yourself in to bigger waves?
Is it a case of just go for it and don't worry
surfrat wrote:Also have a wee dram or two before paddling out. nothing like some dutch courage (don't try this at home kids.....)
Also have a wee dram or two before paddling out. nothing like some dutch courage (don't try this at home kids.....)
bakers wrote:I read theres a book coming out called the fear project? its the study of why some people get scared on waves about 2foot and how pros handle the fear at waves like pipeline.
I've been struggling lately to drop in to waves once they get to about chest / head high. No idea why.
defever wrote:There's a chapter from the fear project book in the recent issue of Surfer's Path magazine.
But this excerpt has a different take on fear and bigger wave surfers. Apparently big wave surfers' longing for big waves are not lack of fear but addiction to dopamine (one of the "feel-good" brain chemicals. The stoke!). They get the "stoke" from scoring big waves and anything smaller just doesn't give them enough stoke. So they go bigger to get more stoke, and bigger, and nastier, and scarier... Something like a drug addict continuously administering more dose every time until they...eventually die from overdose.
I think this can be translated to any aspect in our lives. But not all big wave surfers are big wave junkies though; some may realise the risk associated with big waves one day (through fellow surfer tragically and untimely taken away by the nature, or its impact on significant others, etc). Some may switch to some other sport or something else to achieve that stoke (beer, drug, food, sex, gym, writing essays on forums...sorry), and so on.
So maybe, conyoman, when you score that head height wave (this weekend!), you might just forget all the fear and get addicted to big waves...
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