defever wrote:There's a chapter from the fear project book in the recent issue of Surfer's Path magazine.
But this excerpt has a different take on fear and bigger wave surfers. Apparently big wave surfers' longing for big waves are not lack of fear but addiction to dopamine (one of the "feel-good" brain chemicals. The stoke!). They get the "stoke" from scoring big waves and anything smaller just doesn't give them enough stoke. So they go bigger to get more stoke, and bigger, and nastier, and scarier... Something like a drug addict continuously administering more dose every time until they...eventually die from overdose.
I think this can be translated to any aspect in our lives. But not all big wave surfers are big wave junkies though; some may realise the risk associated with big waves one day (through fellow surfer tragically and untimely taken away by the nature, or its impact on significant others, etc). Some may switch to some other sport or something else to achieve that stoke (beer, drug, food, sex, gym, writing essays on forums...sorry), and so on.
So maybe, conyoman, when you score that head height wave (this weekend!), you might just forget all the fear and get addicted to big waves...
There is a movie out in Australia called 'Soul Surfers' which is about Tom Carroll and Ross Clarke Smith (both ex pros) looking for big waves. What is particularly interesting is that TC is getting a bit nervous about it as he is now older (last 40s I think), but RCS is completely insane and just loves the danger and thinks hold downs are heaps of fun. You can really see that RCS is the dopamine guy; TC is more normal and self confident but knows the risks. As you would expect, in their heyday RCS was booze and girls and drugs and TC was clean living and health and fitness focused.
Worth seeing if it comes over to your place. If nothing else, it makes you realise that you probably will never be a big wave surfer (by big I'm talking 25ft plus, not just overhead). Unless you were that kid who climbed 100ft trees at 10 yrs old and jumped off into the backyard pool.