Getting Bigger Balls for waves

[conyoman]

any tips on throwing yourself in to bigger waves? and I don't mean Jaws sizes....

I've been struggling lately to drop in to waves once they get to about chest / head high. No idea why.

Is it a case of just go for it and don't worry? Any pointers would be great

---riding a 6'4" quad

[Philshoz]

any tips on throwing yourself in to bigger waves?

Is it a case of just go for it and don't worry

Basically, yes. Are you surfing over sand or rock?

He who dares Rodney..........

[Black]

Bigger waves go faster so you have to paddle harder to catch them and you are more likely to mess up if not fully committed. What's the rocker like on your quad, sometimes a low-rockered board can play on your mind in relatively bigger waves. It's mostly attitude, I look upon drillings as a kind of chiropractic physiotherapy. I'm not averse to chickening out either if I don't like the look of things. Just stick with it & don't give up!

[conyoman]

I thought as much.

The rocker is fine - I think it's all in my head.

As soon as I feel the lift and the speed I back out. The only thing stopping me, is me.

I've taken up skateboarding to overcome this - I can drop in on 6ft now, kick turn, stall etc. But there's something about that moving beast that freaks my head!

My take off is terrible - I reckon most grandmothers can pop up faster and cleaner than me!

....ok, this weekend North and South Cornwall have some good swell.....I'm gonna take a few beatings

[Vince Noir]

man up

there is less room for error in head high + waves...once boards start flying in bigger stuff it becomes more dangerous for everyone

the only way you will get used to it is by doing it more, you probably arent going to get hurt. man up, get on with it

[surfrat]

if you can drop in on a 1/4 or 1/2 pipe skating then whats yer problem.....the skating would freak me out loads for sure and i've surfed all sorts of waves for a while now....

i'd say you're a braver man than i rolling into a pipe on a board with wheels....

it's all in your head. try to find a few friends to go with, nothing like some peer pressure to man you up. also watch some big wave movies, then look at the dribble you're surfing and man up!

the reason you're likley to be messing up the waves is cos of lack of committment. if you want a wave, then really go for it paddling in. commit yourself or you might get stuck up and thrown over the falls. paddle out, watch, wait see whats happening, then choose one and really say to yourself "this is mine" and dig in hard. don't think about anything else except catching the wave and making the drop. thinking about what turn or claim you wanna throw down will make u mess it all up.

Also have a wee dram or two before paddling out. nothing like some dutch courage (don't try this at home kids.....)

[Philshoz]

Also have a wee dram or two before paddling out. nothing like some dutch courage (don't try this at home kids.....)

Surely not.......clear head and commitment required.........good luck this weekend.....

[conyoman]

love it folks.....thanks for the encouragement.

This weekend is it. I am in for it!

[spongerboycorn]

Take a few beatings, realise its not that bad and part of the fun! Paddle hard and dont hesitate.

[surfrat]

Also have a wee dram or two before paddling out. nothing like some dutch courage (don't try this at home kids.....)

i should say this only applies if you are on a scottish island in view of a distillery. then it's fine, otherwise its stupid

[zboy]

for me its equipement over the christmas period i bought a new leash for autum / winter and any time it gets big.its an xm power clip big wave leash 9ft before that in the autum i snapped 3 leashes all of which where meant for big waves ,the right equipement gives you confidence. dont think this helps....so jus man up, whats the worse thing that can happen!!!!! snapp your back, reef gash,knock your self out....................

[rodent]

Depends on the type of wave your trying to surf, if it is over shallow reef or sand it can jack up and is quite demanding to paddle into. If its a big fat beast, try a bigger board

[dermo909]

'Just go for it' was something that I kept in mind yesterday while surfing a messy beachbreak. I got my ass handed to me a load of times but when it worked it was fantastic!

If you wipe out, just relax and let the wave carry you in to shore. Then go for it again. After the tenth time it is'nt so bad

[dixie]

im no big wave lover...but when my heart beats a tad faster i try n fing a nice tapered shoulder and when i go to take off [b]look down the line ..not down into the bottom[/b] this will give you confidence, as you will be looking to a safe "exit" you go where you look.

this was a technique i used to use when i was teaching snowboarding in the alps,,,when clients got to a steep section,,,,i would get em to traverse "across" the mountain face thus not seeming likr youre takling a steep face at all.
it works
when i does go tits up ..dont panic dont flap try n be calm youll come back up to the surface

[dixie]

oh n make sure you really want it, and you want it for the right reason.....not under peer pressure

[Jim Birtwisle]

If you like the look of what you see down the line then just go for it, if you make it, enjoy it. If you don't then make sure you get a deep breath and enjoy the underwater ride.

[danny1]

I think we all get this problem....just different levels freak different people out

It's all in the mind

My nemesis has its way with me 70% of the time... But other times- when I'm at the top of my game... Fit, board feels good, I am warm, conditions perfect, no crowd... I'm all over it

I think fitness is the bit that gives me most confidence

Mid winter I'm much more likely to paddle with confidence over the ledge

[dixie]

i paddle into my biggest waves 25ft +,,,,,,,,,,,

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,when i sleep

wake up sweating

[conyoman]

the magic didn't materialise this weekend. Family commitments meant it was a sloppy south coast session while the north was pumping.

I did try out a few larger lupms and took a few beatings - and like has been said. it's not that bad....just don't fight it when you're under, relax, take the tumble, cover your head.

Next weekend......I want a head high+ wave.

[Chris F]

I think it's also a case of doing your time in the water, and working your way up to it. Get better in smaller waves, get fitter paddling out, get faster paddling for waves, work on popping up neater and getting into position earlier, and suddenly everything seems a lot easier (based on my experience, never really surfed anything bigger than overhead). I was amazed what a difference it made going away for a week and getting in the water once or twice a day every day made by the end of the week, rhather than grabbing the odd weekend surf, and the occasional midweek session.

Although being prepared to take a few (safe) beatings (ie beaches with a fiar depth of water, not reefs or shallow shorebreaks) and learning what to do when you know one is coming and having a hearty helping of MTFU.

[Philshoz]

Check out Greg Long's three wave hold down at Cortes Bank Christmas Eve.........…

Made me feel out of breath just reading it

http://www.surfersvillage.com/surfing-n ... Oq8Ab-9LTo

[bakers]

I find that every time the waves get big it takes me a while to get the balls to commit to the take off. but once ive done it i can keep chucking them out. the next surf session though ive got to muster up the courage again to make the first drop, even if the waves are a bit smaller.

[bakers]

I read theres a book coming out called the fear project? its the study of why some people get scared on waves about 2foot and how pros handle the fear at waves like pipeline.

[rodent]

Its more the shape of the wave, never had difficulty on big fat waves but sheer panic on those smaller ones that jack up for some reason

[danny1]

Yep that's it true... Ever surfed a fat big wave? Good fun

[WP101]

I read theres a book coming out called the fear project? its the study of why some people get scared on waves about 2foot and how pros handle the fear at waves like pipeline.

dont think it warrants a book

fear is the same wether its a big wave, a rollercoaster or just the dark.

my surfing fear is directly proportional to my fitness, as said above.

[defever]

There's a chapter from the fear project book in the recent issue of Surfer's Path magazine.

But this excerpt has a different take on fear and bigger wave surfers. Apparently big wave surfers' longing for big waves are not lack of fear but addiction to dopamine (one of the "feel-good" brain chemicals. The stoke!). They get the "stoke" from scoring big waves and anything smaller just doesn't give them enough stoke. So they go bigger to get more stoke, and bigger, and nastier, and scarier... Something like a drug addict continuously administering more dose every time until they...eventually die from overdose.

I think this can be translated to any aspect in our lives. But not all big wave surfers are big wave junkies though; some may realise the risk associated with big waves one day (through fellow surfer tragically and untimely taken away by the nature, or its impact on significant others, etc). Some may switch to some other sport or something else to achieve that stoke (beer, drug, food, sex, gym, writing essays on forums...sorry), and so on.

So maybe, conyoman, when you score that head height wave (this weekend!), you might just forget all the fear and get addicted to big waves...

[gavtheoldskater]

I've been struggling lately to drop in to waves once they get to about chest / head high. No idea why.

i would'nt worry, surf what you think is fun. personally i like chest high or thereabouts, i often stray way from the main spots and go for smaller stuff. that its often way quieter to empty is a big bonus.

[dermo909]

i often stray way from the main spots and go for smaller stuff. that its often way quieter to empty is a big bonus.

Quieter means more waves and less hassle

[cricket]

There's a chapter from the fear project book in the recent issue of Surfer's Path magazine.

But this excerpt has a different take on fear and bigger wave surfers. Apparently big wave surfers' longing for big waves are not lack of fear but addiction to dopamine (one of the "feel-good" brain chemicals. The stoke!). They get the "stoke" from scoring big waves and anything smaller just doesn't give them enough stoke. So they go bigger to get more stoke, and bigger, and nastier, and scarier... Something like a drug addict continuously administering more dose every time until they...eventually die from overdose.

I think this can be translated to any aspect in our lives. But not all big wave surfers are big wave junkies though; some may realise the risk associated with big waves one day (through fellow surfer tragically and untimely taken away by the nature, or its impact on significant others, etc). Some may switch to some other sport or something else to achieve that stoke (beer, drug, food, sex, gym, writing essays on forums...sorry), and so on.

So maybe, conyoman, when you score that head height wave (this weekend!), you might just forget all the fear and get addicted to big waves...

There is a movie out in Australia called 'Soul Surfers' which is about Tom Carroll and Ross Clarke Smith (both ex pros) looking for big waves. What is particularly interesting is that TC is getting a bit nervous about it as he is now older (last 40s I think), but RCS is completely insane and just loves the danger and thinks hold downs are heaps of fun. You can really see that RCS is the dopamine guy; TC is more normal and self confident but knows the risks. As you would expect, in their heyday RCS was booze and girls and drugs and TC was clean living and health and fitness focused.

Worth seeing if it comes over to your place. If nothing else, it makes you realise that you probably will never be a big wave surfer (by big I'm talking 25ft plus, not just overhead). Unless you were that kid who climbed 100ft trees at 10 yrs old and jumped off into the backyard pool.