cricket wrote: Ross Clarke Smith
did he get married recently?
Archy_is_God wrote:Lean forward, don't lean back. Good point
People think they are going to be safer by weighting the tail in drops. This is erroneous. You will stall and get pitched.
Watch old footage of Andy Irons - he literally paddles down the face on some waves with his body upside-down.
3 or 4 good paddles should get you into most waves - learn to do powerful, deep full paddles with your chin on the deck of your board. I see so many people do about 7 or 8 superficial windmill paddles with their chest almost off their board, totally un-committed, but still thinking they will somehow get into the wave.
Looking at my gopro footage I'm actually amazed how little paddling I do into a wave (it feels like more) but also amazed how much I do in between times!
There's some tips at the bottom of this page:
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/surfl ... oke_41384/
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