Few good sessions lately.
Sunday evening a couple of weeks ago, during the England match, maiden-voyage on my spankers first board (more on that later.....
) lots of small but clean, glassy lefts at Putts and hardly anyone else out, had the time of my life catching lots of waves and my board intuitively felt right for me.
This thursday/friday just gone, down at a few breaks in Cornwall, visiting the parents who were on holiday down there. Strong off-shore winds, took a while to twig why I kept drifting behind where the waves were breaking!! - durrh!
But paddled in to some of the biggest waves of my surfing career, probably only 3-4 foot, but it looks a lot bigger when your heads at water-level. Caught a few corkers. Keep on having "best rides of my life" most sessions, so that's promising.
The wind dropped in the evening, leaving some lovealy clean waves, but by this point I'd spent so much time in the water I could barely move my arms haha, so I called it a day. Watched some really talented surfers, and saw one guy tuck in and get barrelled for a few seconds - first time I've seen that, and I'm super-stoked.
New board on the other-hand, is no-longer perfect (thread to follow as soon as I can get access to a good quality camera.)