Vince Noir wrote:
12...was more like 1200 this morning for the dawn push at croyde
wasnt helping the all the waves were concentrated on the rocks...some thumping bombs coming through this morning.
kind of a bittersweet surf, as it reminds me im comfortable in "big waves"..but i was feeling rusty. but considering i had been out of any exercise for 2 months due to my back, i was surfing well.just so many idiots in the water, and the high period just makes it easy for them to get out back
i got a waves, one left which shut down on me, one right i wiped out on the peak and got nailed, and two more lefts that were okay, but didnt have a chance to do anything on them cos the inside was a fucking slalom...didnt fancy going right over to the rocks, as i presumed smelly would be allover it like a dropping in rash
so many people, so many drops ins, so many boards being bailed, lots of people missing waves...bit shit really. an to top it off i had some fuck up bail his longboard infront of me on a solid set that caught everyone out....pushed me deep enough for a leash climb (albeit it a small one
bet low tide will be cranking. i would probably thinking of finding somewhere quiet though (good luck !)
(btw i bet trev is doing everyone a bit of a favour by turning off the eyeball cam
it was half hr off high tide ( 10.30am ish ) , and so I was looking at the wave almost from the side, which always makes if hard to judge , but there was a left , with someone on it, that looked DOH at the Downend end of croyde this morning - impressive.
The point looked amazing 14.00 ish, some long rides, but the odd proper clean up set, + two blokes surfing a peak almost in between Saunton and the Point that I'd never seen before ( short rides, getting dumped in the same spot each time, not sure what it was all about tbh ) .
oysters looked liked it was working as well. no ralph freedman about tho.
Personally managed one wave in two sessions, but whatevs, top day.