Stoke surf today!

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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby roberdy » Sun Oct 21, 2012 7:48 pm

briggfoot wrote:
roberdy wrote:not exactly standing up, quite fat really but bloody big


Is this a description of the waves, or the rider? :P If it's the latter, I think I saw you out there..


How very bloody dare you, I resemble that remark...

Yeah if you were at C-tock, I was paddling about not getting much except waves on the head for far too long....
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Black » Sun Oct 21, 2012 8:19 pm

roberdy wrote:
briggfoot wrote:
roberdy wrote:not exactly standing up, quite fat really but bloody big


Is this a description of the waves, or the rider? :P If it's the latter, I think I saw you out there..


How very bloody dare you, I resemble that remark...

Yeah if you were at C-tock, I was paddling about not getting much except waves on the head for far too long....

That makes 3 of us. Was going to post earlier but there wouldn't have been much stoke in it, felt more like survival! Got in 12:30ish Caught a few but nothing great. They were getting bigger all the time it seemed, lots of paddling. Got hammered to hell paddling out on occasion, I can make it, I can make it, I can make it, shit I'm not going to make it booooom! Got pushed off a few from the offshores. Had a long dark hold down after my last wave, came up fighting to get oxygen into my lungs asap. Only managed just over an hour & was shattered. Still thats surfing sometimes :lol:
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby the blowin » Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:21 pm

Vince Noir wrote:12...was more like 1200 this morning for the dawn push at croyde

wasnt helping the all the waves were concentrated on the rocks...some thumping bombs coming through this morning.

kind of a bittersweet surf, as it reminds me im comfortable in "big waves"..but i was feeling rusty. but considering i had been out of any exercise for 2 months due to my back, i was surfing well.just so many idiots in the water, and the high period just makes it easy for them to get out back :evil: :twisted:


i got a waves, one left which shut down on me, one right i wiped out on the peak and got nailed, and two more lefts that were okay, but didnt have a chance to do anything on them cos the inside was a fucking slalom...didnt fancy going right over to the rocks, as i presumed smelly would be allover it like a dropping in rash :lol:


so many people, so many drops ins, so many boards being bailed, lots of people missing waves...bit shit really. an to top it off i had some fuck up bail his longboard infront of me on a solid set that caught everyone out....pushed me deep enough for a leash climb (albeit it a small one :lol: ) :shock:






bet low tide will be cranking. i would probably thinking of finding somewhere quiet though (good luck !)

(btw i bet trev is doing everyone a bit of a favour by turning off the eyeball cam :lol: )


it was half hr off high tide ( 10.30am ish ) , and so I was looking at the wave almost from the side, which always makes if hard to judge , but there was a left , with someone on it, that looked DOH at the Downend end of croyde this morning - impressive.

The point looked amazing 14.00 ish, some long rides, but the odd proper clean up set, + two blokes surfing a peak almost in between Saunton and the Point that I'd never seen before ( short rides, getting dumped in the same spot each time, not sure what it was all about tbh ) .

oysters looked liked it was working as well. no ralph freedman about tho.

Personally managed one wave in two sessions, but whatevs, top day.
Last edited by the blowin on Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Underdog » Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:23 pm

First propper surf since last Feb when the rotator cuff went: so I thought i would sneak down to Sandyacres for an "under the radar" taster session.

Fuck me !! last few winters this was a little haven for those willing to swap size for space. Not any more. Got to have been over 100 in the water in quite a small area whilst the more sizeable breaks to the north were (comparatively) empty.

So............1 hr - 2 Waves

Maybe not the ideal size for an unfit old fucker to get back into it. :-) and i probably spent a good 10 mins getting out back out after each wave but the shoulder is still intact and not even a twinge (yaho!oo!!!! :-D )

Totaly fucking but stoked to be back in the water.
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby zboy » Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:37 pm

went out at 8 am low tide/incoming 9ft @16 secs,what a score and its free in a world where everthing has a price. :-)
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Vince Noir » Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:47 pm

the blowin wrote:
Vince Noir wrote:12...was more like 1200 this morning for the dawn push at croyde

wasnt helping the all the waves were concentrated on the rocks...some thumping bombs coming through this morning.

kind of a bittersweet surf, as it reminds me im comfortable in "big waves"..but i was feeling rusty. but considering i had been out of any exercise for 2 months due to my back, i was surfing well.just so many idiots in the water, and the high period just makes it easy for them to get out back :evil: :twisted:


i got a waves, one left which shut down on me, one right i wiped out on the peak and got nailed, and two more lefts that were okay, but didnt have a chance to do anything on them cos the inside was a fucking slalom...didnt fancy going right over to the rocks, as i presumed smelly would be allover it like a dropping in rash :lol:


so many people, so many drops ins, so many boards being bailed, lots of people missing waves...bit shit really. an to top it off i had some fuck up bail his longboard infront of me on a solid set that caught everyone out....pushed me deep enough for a leash climb (albeit it a small one :lol: ) :shock:


One or two sets were pretty big.saw a 15/16 yr old on one that could have been doh, but he was short.

That peaks sounds like ralphs.never seen it work but the description given is of a short sucky barrely right breaking over shallow rock ( unless i stand to be corrected?)

Annoyed i didnt get more waves but 5 set waves when there were 200 in the water and you havent surfed anything above waist high for 4 weeks is better than no Surf ..







bet low tide will be cranking. i would probably thinking of finding somewhere quiet though (good luck !)

(btw i bet trev is doing everyone a bit of a favour by turning off the eyeball cam :lol: )


it was half hr off high tide ( 10.30am ish ) , and so I was looking at the wave almost from the side, which always makes if hard to judge , but there was a left , with someone on it, that looked DOH at the Downend end of croyde this morning - impressive.

The point looked amazing 14.00 ish, some long rides, but the odd proper clean up set, + two blokes surfing a peak almost in between Saunton and the Point that I'd never seen before ( short rides, getting dumped in the same spot each time, not sure what it was all about tbh ) .

oysters looked liked it was working as well. no ralph freedman about tho.

Personally managed one wave in two sessions, but whatevs, top day.
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Philshoz » Mon Oct 22, 2012 7:04 am

Some interesting posts guys. It certainly increased after midday yesterday.

Still reliving my last wave in: backhand right,very late takeoff, nice carving bottom turn and a couple off the tops, yipee ( even did a claim at the end, it's contagious :oops: )

Good luck and stay safe.................... :lol:
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby dermo909 » Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:50 am

Unfortunately that magic swell did'nt really wrap around to south-east Ireland and only ended up at around 3ft at my local. Bloody hell though they were big fat waves! It seemed like the whole ocean was pushing them in. I can only imagine the size you lot were surfing!

I had a great session though, caught a few that seemed to go on forever. Dont you just love it where you have time to think about your next move?!
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Ferral » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:40 am

filth yesterday.. shame i only had a couple of hours sleep and far too much booze on sat night but still managed 3hrs in the water in the morning in some pretty decent peaky rights, including the best wave i've porbably ever had at the spot. Bit disappointed in the arvo surf, could have been unreal -head high sets on a slab point barreling onto almost dry reef -but there was a fair bit of side chop making negotiating the waves tricky to say the least. or at least tricky with the left over taste of sambucca haunting me!
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby coxie » Mon Oct 22, 2012 10:19 am

Didn't get a surf over the weekend as i was on baby duty but super stoked to see dozens of boards rolling into the workshop because of the carnage.
Might even buy myself a new frock next weekend with all my winnings :P
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Craivold » Mon Oct 22, 2012 10:55 am

Some ludicrous waves coming in yesterday and definitely some people probably singing Ludacris (move bitch, get out the way!) from what I saw at Croyde & Saunton. Got in on the early at Saunton with Splinter thinking it was going to be around head high on the sets as you could hear but not see the waves as the light opened up you could see it was bigger, blimey, the amount of duckdiving at that place when its big is crazy! Spent more time under water than surfing it in the 2 hrs or so I was in. Most of the time I just hunted around on the inside searching for reforms, at one point in a lull I'd stroked out back with prob only five duck dives, Splinter 15 yards in front - still gunning for the horizon.... So I start gunning some more, sets coming... Splinter squeeks over, I'm still a few yards behind him... Oh dear... got flogged back to the inside pretty much :lol: . Was a real laugh though however a lot of the bigger sets were closing out a little - definitely think it was a day for a nice point or reef massaging the swell into a more orderly fashion. Having said that popped round to Croyde for a look and it seemed to be handling it a lot better and thought I'd furnish this post with some pics (just on the phone so soz for quality);

Image
Image
Image

Hoping the wind stays as is and I can get out and actually ride some waves tomorrow...
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Craivold » Mon Oct 22, 2012 10:59 am

I reckon double overhead on the bigger sets was about right too...
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Philshoz » Mon Oct 22, 2012 1:02 pm

No probs with the quality Cravoid, looks very nice.

Bit of an odd one today. My beachie was ruffled by the cross-shore and full of flashmob Dutch surfers. They take to the water in bunches of six, wtf is that all about. Get back to clogland.

The two reefs were rammed and going off so I decided on a more mellow session, the right point out front.

First in but was soon sharing with four SUPs, one being the French champ. Always a sketchy takeoff then into long lazy cutback 100 mtr wave, lots of fun but loooooong waits between sets.

Three hours later and I was last in and home for much needed food.

Encore merci Poseidon...... :wink: a demain.
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby zboy » Mon Oct 22, 2012 3:12 pm

all good things come to an end! well ere in kerry eire any ways. so igot up 6am did my work left work at 10.45 am, in water for 11am had the cliff to my self head high and super clean , and thats that will be flat for the week now :cry: :cry: . sorry no pics as is the norm start showing pics of epic days every tom dick and harry will want a piece of it, getting in the way sitting on the inside.thats what gets my goat at outside indo :twisted: :-)
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby roberdy » Mon Oct 22, 2012 5:40 pm

well good session at Gwithian Towans this morning, despite the devil wind coming round and taking the edge off of it grrrr. Still head high on the set and got a couple of screamers :)
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Archy_is_God » Mon Oct 22, 2012 5:51 pm

Just had ANOTHER belter! Yewww!

Wish the swell would hang around a bit longer...
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Archy_is_God » Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:24 pm

coxie wrote:Didn't get a surf over the weekend as i was on baby duty but super stoked to see dozens of boards rolling into the workshop because of the carnage.
Might even buy myself a new frock next weekend with all my winnings :P

:lol:
Thought you might be busy mate!
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Chai Wallah » Mon Oct 22, 2012 7:44 pm

A short vid of somewhere in the duchy yesterday

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjgYAaNDmNQ
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Poo Stance » Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:06 pm

yesterday, 2surfs 4hrs 4waves... hmmmm.
Today wasn't quite as big and consistent as I'd hoped for at spot XYZ. Marginally higher wave count though :-D
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Philshoz » Tue Oct 23, 2012 5:41 am

Poo Stance wrote:yesterday, 2surfs 4hrs 4waves... hmmmm.
Today wasn't quite as big and consistent as I'd hoped for at spot XYZ. Marginally higher wave count though :-D


Don't work out cost per wave on that trip Poo..........yikes.
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby the blowin » Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:16 am

Craivold wrote:Some ludicrous waves coming in yesterday and definitely some people probably singing Ludacris (move bitch, get out the way!) from what I saw at Croyde & Saunton. Got in on the early at Saunton with Splinter thinking it was going to be around head high on the sets as you could hear but not see the waves as the light opened up you could see it was bigger, blimey, the amount of duckdiving at that place when its big is crazy! Spent more time under water than surfing it in the 2 hrs or so I was in. Most of the time I just hunted around on the inside searching for reforms, at one point in a lull I'd stroked out back with prob only five duck dives, Splinter 15 yards in front - still gunning for the horizon.... So I start gunning some more, sets coming... Splinter squeeks over, I'm still a few yards behind him... Oh dear... got flogged back to the inside pretty much :lol: . Was a real laugh though however a lot of the bigger sets were closing out a little - definitely think it was a day for a nice point or reef massaging the swell into a more orderly fashion. Having said that popped round to Croyde for a look and it seemed to be handling it a lot better and thought I'd furnish this post with some pics (just on the phone so soz for quality);

Image
Image
Image

Hoping the wind stays as is and I can get out and actually ride some waves tomorrow...


what mobile / photo app do you use ? mine are an embarassment next to those .
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby dermo909 » Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:52 am

Chai Wallah wrote:A short vid of somewhere in the duchy yesterday

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjgYAaNDmNQ


My local looked alot like that yesterday :-D Slight bit smaller maybe but very similar.

The surf has been so good over the past few days that my legs are aching as well as my shoulders. I pulled into a good one yesterday and thought my legs were gonna give up!
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Craivold » Tue Oct 23, 2012 11:39 am

No image processing on these - just some rare autumn sunshine and a Nokia Lumia 800, cheers for the comments as I'm well pleased with the snaps it takes in good light, quality really goes down hill in low light but I guess that's to be expected. My sis has just got a Nikon DSLR and the pics from that make the above ones look schizer!

Bit of a wait inbetween sets today at Saunton and busier than I'd hoped but got some super fun peelers - real glassy :-D
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Archy_is_God » Tue Oct 23, 2012 1:04 pm

I like that pic of the Point; you don't often see that perspective. The left looks great... Very rarely surfed, but can be fun... Just need to kick out in time :lol:
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby artyk » Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:22 pm

yeah great 2 days of good 5ft waves at wooly sunday , monday took a trip from the east coast and scored some great waves , sunday morn was hard work with lots of big close outs and beatings on the inside, had to be in the right spot but if you was then there was some fast big walls to bash :-D . sunday nite and monday morn and a couple of 3hr+ seshs and me and my buddy had our best waves for a long long time super stoked
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Vince Noir » Tue Oct 23, 2012 9:28 pm

betting the crowds were slightly better at wooly...


archy, did you get in at the point or were you further down the coast?
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Craivold » Wed Oct 24, 2012 1:11 pm

Archy_is_God wrote:I like that pic of the Point; you don't often see that perspective. The left looks great... Very rarely surfed, but can be fun... Just need to kick out in time :lol:


Yeah tide was too full for the rights to peel properly at that point and the lefts looked like the better waves, however only really doing it on the sets and as you probably know all too well the end section was nice and rocky!
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby lastexit » Thu Oct 25, 2012 1:53 pm

roberdy wrote:well good session at Gwithian Towans this morning, despite the devil wind coming round and taking the edge off of it grrrr. Still head high on the set and got a couple of screamers :)

Got in the water at about 7.30 and was in for 2 hrs and got caught inside on a huge set and had my first proper hold down, freaked me out a little to say the least. Caught 2 crappy closeouts.
But on the upside caught one amazing right, riding it from trough to lip all the way till it died in total awe of it.
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Archy_is_God » Thu Oct 25, 2012 4:28 pm

Vince Noir wrote:betting the crowds were slightly better at wooly...


archy, did you get in at the point or were you further down the coast?


Yes, went elsewhere. Was pumping and borderline closing out on some.

Cut me feet and put a hole in my eardrum, but was worth it (weirdly!)
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Re: Stoke surf today!

Postby Ferral » Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:19 pm

Archy_is_God wrote:
Cut me feet and put a hole in my eardrum, but was worth it (weirdly!)


Should have been wearing your surf plugs!!
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