had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby ATTMFKH » Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:45 pm

Philshoz wrote:
Black wrote:
Managed to topple off the front of my board whilst jamming my index finger under the gopro bending it backwards from the joint - ahhhghhhh! :lol: :lol:
At the end of the session was paddling back out for ages and suddenly realised I was going backwards fast, stood up and I was knee deep! :roll: Turned around and there were a couple of kids in the shallows looking at me like, what the hell??? :lol: :lol: :lol:


Any better today Black??

Had an afternoon session with the masses, jeez, where did they learn to surf? You paddle for a wave and are faced with a row of rabbits in headlights incapable of moving to the side to let you through. According to French folklore they all sod off after the 15th, here's hoping :roll:


^^^ Clowns to the Left of me Jokers to the Right .......... :twisted:
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Black » Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:57 pm

Philshoz wrote:
Black wrote:Any better today Black??
Finger is so sore & swollen I didn't go in today although the surf looked much more usable.
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Chris F » Thu Aug 27, 2015 7:41 am

Got to beach far too late on Monday night (held up by trivial shit like swimming lessons and children). Tide was already too high, and waves bouncing off sea wall. Managed to get in at steps by judgement and sheer luck, paddled out in what felt like a washing machine. Waves were a mess and breaking inconsistently, so a major paddlefest. Managed by fluke to catch one semi decent wave, got to shallows and though "It's Duke day, what would Duke do" Decided he'd have probable gone to cookout or a luau or something, sacked it off and got out.
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby danny1 » Thu Aug 27, 2015 3:32 pm

^^^^hahahh
yak yak yak yak yak yak yak
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Burler » Sun Sep 20, 2015 11:53 am

Didnt know where to put this, not a bad surf but certainly a bad skate session. Thought some people might be interested/freaked out 20 years of skateboarding without anything too nasty and then I go and dislocate/break my ankle (no ligament damage thank god). Plates, screws n rods galore

Got another 5 weeks until the cast is off and I can bear weight on it. How long after that until I can surf again? I don't know, another month of Physio post cast removal maybe? Good news is after a bit of research, turns out the crutches work the same muscles as paddling so hopefully I'll be like a speed boat once I'm back on it.

Anyway, I don't wanna be hearing no moaning about missing a few waves from y'all as I aint getting none for a while!!! 8)

Have tried to get these thigsn to work right but I'm no computer geek I'm afraid!
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Black » Sun Sep 20, 2015 12:37 pm

Oh crap! And yet you look so pleased :shock:
Get well soon.
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby ATTMFKH » Sun Sep 20, 2015 1:00 pm

Fuck off mate - that's sick :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Leven » Sun Sep 20, 2015 1:15 pm

Burler wrote:How long after that until I can surf again? I don't know, another month of Physio post cast removal maybe?



As long as it takes mate. Whatever you do, don't rush. That's a pretty serious injury/trauma, and it'll take quite a while to settle down etc. I had knee surgery almost 2 years ago, got back in the water after 4 months or so, and shouldn't have. It was probably about a year before I felt ok again, and another 6 months to feel confident and fit again....
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Burler » Sun Sep 20, 2015 7:28 pm

Leven wrote:
Burler wrote:How long after that until I can surf again? I don't know, another month of Physio post cast removal maybe?



As long as it takes mate. Whatever you do, don't rush. That's a pretty serious injury/trauma, and it'll take quite a while to settle down etc. I had knee surgery almost 2 years ago, got back in the water after 4 months or so, and shouldn't have. It was probably about a year before I felt ok again, and another 6 months to feel confident and fit again....



Thanks for the advice mate, point seriously taken.

After being non weight bearing for so long I think it will take a while for my legs to even be the same size for a start, not looking forward to having a gollum leg at all :?

I think a lot of light balance exercise and work down the swimming baths will help but I am going to take it real slow, I don't want this to pop up again in a few years time becasue I put it under undue stress by getting too frisky too early.
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby future primitive » Mon Sep 21, 2015 3:07 pm

That bottom photo reminds of Henrik Larrson's broken leg about 15 years ago,both made me cringe,but at least they left you your skateboard to go home on,both my old boards are in my garage somewhere with a good layer of dust on them and that's where they are staying,the older you get the more it bloody hurts,as others have said take it easy and don't rush
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby ATTMFKH » Mon Sep 21, 2015 3:11 pm

^ Saw Larsson's - the worst one I ever saw (showing my age here) was Joe Theismann - QB for Washington Redskins - planted his front foot to throw ball & some cornerback or lineman tackled him above the knee - his leg snapped and nearly hit him on the chin - probably added a little VAT to that but worth a search online :puke:
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Chris F » Tue Sep 22, 2015 9:58 am

That's a grim pic.

Hope it heals OK.
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Philchapman » Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:13 am

Did you fracture your Tibia/Fibula Burler? Or are they both okay?

That photo takes me back to when I saw my own foot at 90 degrees from where it should be, 30 years ago. As I was rolling around in agony a mate arrived and rode straight into me on his BMX, thinking that I was mucking about :lol:. I can't remember the exact length of time it took to heal (It has never been the same), but I did a good job of spiral fracturing my Tibia. A big plate and 9 screws kept it in place, but I think I wasn't supposed to weight bear for 3 months or more, and then slowly increase from there. Then there is the muscle loss, and joint stiffness to get over. It's not a quick process, and shouldn't be rushed, but if you put in the effort you'll regain the muscles and range of movement. Personally I found that the physio help I got only took me so far, and if I hadn't worked intensely with Yoga/Martial Arts at the time then my ankle would be a lot weaker and have less movement than it does now. Hope it all heals okay for you.
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby ATTMFKH » Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:33 am

Buy yer board off you Burler :shock: :lol: :lol:
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Chris F » Thu Sep 24, 2015 11:32 am

ATTMFKH wrote:^ Saw Larsson's - the worst one I ever saw (showing my age here) was Joe Theismann - QB for Washington Redskins - planted his front foot to throw ball & some cornerback or lineman tackled him above the knee - his leg snapped and nearly hit him on the chin - probably added a little VAT to that but worth a search online :puke:


Also showing my age, there was that grim clash between Peter Shilton and Mark Wright from Saints in late 80s, I remember a pic in Shoot magazine of Wright's lower leg folding around Peter Shilton's knee.
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Leven » Thu Sep 24, 2015 5:24 pm

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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Burler » Thu Sep 24, 2015 5:37 pm

Two week clinic appointment today. Healing well but looks like I've torn a bunch of shit I didn't know about inititally. I think I counted around eight screws in total on the xray and one heck of a big plate. Another four weeks in cast followed by six weeks in a highy fashionable moon boot. At least by that point I can go swimming and exercise it a little so can't wait for that. Suddenly feels like a long way to recovery, chicks dig scars though right?

ATTMFKH - Even If I wanted to sell I couldn't get the thing to the post office so I'll hang on to it for now and hope I'm ready for that super perfect swell I've requested to hit in December :wink:
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Philchapman » Thu Sep 24, 2015 8:27 pm

I've got a 10" scar from mine. Tell the chicks it's a shark bite... works every time! :lol:
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Burler » Sat Sep 26, 2015 8:49 pm

Philchapman wrote:I've got a 10" scar from mine. Tell the chicks it's a shark bite... works every time! :lol:


Done! Cheers bruvva!
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Black » Wed Nov 11, 2015 9:48 pm

Had a shit one today but at least I did! Got nothing out of it except the doing which is possibly better than not. Actually felt better after for achieving nothing!
Good for starting this thread Danny.
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby c-lad fantastic » Sat Jan 02, 2016 12:16 am

Such a frustrating surf today, couldn't get my take-off working at all. Really strong offshore but great waves.

Image

Happy New Year
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Leven » Sat Jan 02, 2016 11:16 am

Know the feeling....paddled out at Godrevy early morning, was 2x overhead with the odd bigger one, and just couldn't line them up right. Then the tide started to drop and made it all wobbly. Still, nice to get into some size.

Lots of vans & cars rocking up, taking one look, and going somewhere smaller! :lol:
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby briggfoot » Sat Jan 02, 2016 11:29 pm

Leven wrote:Know the feeling....paddled out at Godrevy early morning, was 2x overhead with the odd bigger one, and just couldn't line them up right. Then the tide started to drop and made it all wobbly. Still, nice to get into some size.

Lots of vans & cars rocking up, taking one look, and going somewhere smaller! :lol:


:lol:

Well after a sublime surf to start the New Year's day (hours trek covered in mud to surf a little break just me and 3 mates, and the local chap,) I made- what was in hindsight- a foolish decision to mission down to Kernow due to the forecasts of today.....Had a little look at Jobe's favourite Bude break on the drive down on New Years Day, and it was on! So suited up, sky was a bit dark, didn't think anything of it.....paddled out, 4:20pm when I got out back. Joss and the locals dominating in the strong offshore line-up, only got 1 of the smaller shit waves before it was going properly dark and had to paddle back and get out. Ah well. I have been in Morocco for a little while and forgot how early it goes dark here at this time of year!

Kipped in Newquay for the night then drove round Fal/St. Austel and down the lizard, only to be 1 step behind the dropping swell and tides at every turn. Rocked up to see places literally wilt infront of me, and the waves die, or witness the very first breath of the howling westerly winds that blew hard all day, and everyone getting out.

Checked my phone:- Putsborough had been offshore and light southerly's ALL FREAKIN' MORNING and smug messages from a friend to say what a great surf he'd had there! I can drive there in 15 minutes from leaving bed! £25 in diesel and a days trecking around getting skunked, i'm back in Devon now sulking. Ah well, you win some you lose some! :-D :P

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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Philshoz » Sun Jan 03, 2016 7:42 am

briggfoot wrote:
Leven wrote:Know the feeling....paddled out at Godrevy early morning, was 2x overhead with the odd bigger one, and just couldn't line them up right. Then the tide started to drop and made it all wobbly. Still, nice to get into some size.

Lots of vans & cars rocking up, taking one look, and going somewhere smaller! :lol:


:lol:

Well after a sublime surf to start the New Year's day (hours trek covered in mud to surf a little break just me and 3 mates, and the local chap,) I made- what was in hindsight- a foolish decision to mission down to Kernow due to the forecasts of today.....Had a little look at Jobe's favourite Bude break on the drive down on New Years Day, and it was on! So suited up, sky was a bit dark, didn't think anything of it.....paddled out, 4:20pm when I got out back. Joss and the locals dominating in the strong offshore line-up, only got 1 of the smaller shit waves before it was going properly dark and had to paddle back and get out. Ah well. I have been in Morocco for a little while and forgot how early it goes dark here at this time of year!

Kipped in Newquay for the night then drove round Fal/St. Austel and down the lizard, only to be 1 step behind the dropping swell and tides at every turn. Rocked up to see places literally wilt infront of me, and the waves die, or witness the very first breath of the howling westerly winds that blew hard all day, and everyone getting out.

Checked my phone:- Putsborough had been offshore and light southerly's ALL FREAKIN' MORNING and smug messages from a friend to say what a great surf he'd had there! I can drive there in 15 minutes from leaving bed! £25 in diesel and a days trecking around getting skunked, i'm back in Devon now sulking. Ah well, you win some you lose some! :-D :P

regards


That post makes me realise what a lazy bastard I am.

New Year's resolution......make more of an effort and explore.
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby briggfoot » Sun Jan 03, 2016 6:15 pm

Philshoz wrote:
That post makes me realise what a lazy bastard I am.

New Year's resolution......make more of an effort and explore.


Funny that, it taught me the opposite lesson:- that sometimes staying in bed and waiting for daylight to reveal what's unfolding at your local break rewards you moee than waking up in the early hours of the morning and making brash decisions to drive several hours based on flimsy wave buoy data..:-D

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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Philshoz » Sun Jan 03, 2016 8:05 pm

briggfoot wrote:
Philshoz wrote:
That post makes me realise what a lazy bastard I am.

New Year's resolution......make more of an effort and explore.


Funny that, it taught me the opposite lesson:- that sometimes staying in bed and waiting for daylight to reveal what's unfolding at your local break rewards you moee than waking up in the early hours of the morning and making brash decisions to drive several hours based on flimsy wave buoy data..:-D

Regards


This is my local Briggfoot, winter is not ideal. Mon 11/2 a tad breezy.
http://magicseaweed.com/Baie-des-Trepas ... Report/73/
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby JayP » Sun Jan 03, 2016 9:56 pm

Think yourselves lucky you're surfing at all. Ive been nursing a dodgy back for 4 months now. I'd love a shit surf!
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby briggfoot » Sun Jan 03, 2016 10:22 pm

Philshoz wrote:
This is my local Briggfoot, winter is not ideal. Mon 11/2 a tad breezy.
http://magicseaweed.com/Baie-des-Trepas ... Report/73/


:cry: :cry:.........ahh..........evening glass-off not on the cards then i'm guessing... :lol: :?
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby Black » Sun Jan 10, 2016 6:02 pm

First surf of the year. Would have had more fun stabbing myself in the eye with a pencil. :-(
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Re: had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

Postby ATTMFKH » Sun Jan 10, 2016 7:37 pm

me the Janitor and Harkii creeping through the bull run before 1st light - 5 am start for fuck all :evil:
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