hughesy wrote:I think you'll find that someone somewhere will object to you going and messing with the seabed.
Mat 'Sonic' Clark wrote:Any hand built reef be it made of sandbags or stones would probably be significantly flattened by the first decent swell to break on it.
Mat 'Sonic' Clark wrote:A partial solution to these problems might be a mobile reef built of metal sections that link together.
Mat 'Sonic' Clark wrote:One other thing to think about is channelling streams/ small rivers. Kids do this every summer at most beaches in Cornwall. Could it be turned to our advantage???
IainF wrote:Firstly i'd say that putting a reef in is not something you should decide to do without due consideration, there's a fir bit of evidence in the literature that submerged structures (designed for coastal protection) actually often cause erosion in their lee ... although i doubt a one man band reef building project would manage to create anytihng large enoguh to cause an effect... the strong feedback loops often occur in changes to the coastal zones what was a small change can rapidly grow.
IainF wrote: IF i was tasked with building an artifical surfing break id say the best way would be (on an open coastline) to build a carefully designed groyne such that a decent sandbank would form. ... If you look at lots of waves they are coastal engineering accidents. If people want to build waves maybe they should look at the accidents.
IainF wrote: I reckon by digging a channel in a line straight out to sea on a closeout bank would give you a wave breaking into the channel on one or both sides... i think that when waves started to break return flows would 'find' the deeper channel and help scour and maintain the channel ...you'ld essentailly create your own rip current cell.
majordom wrote:the sandbank is the shape and loation it isbecause of the effet of the ocean
changing it will be very hard as the ocean will just want to push it back to the natural position
Noserope wrote:I did it. My pal Pete and I lugged out rocks from the sea wall as heavy as we could carry as far as we could hold our breath and deposited them in a pile outside of a spot that reeled off too fast to get into. What we accomplished was we made a take off spot that stood up long enough for you to paddle into it. It was a crazy break where a head high wave would be past vertical one foot up the face that usually had a three foot thick lip that would throw six feet horizontally, that was usually over only about one foot of water. Sometimes the wave went dry at the bottom and got ugly. I broke both both my thumbs there once doing a superman dive off the front of my board. The next winter a big storm swell took the rocks away. It was worth it I got some of the best tubes of my whole life there. Over a hundred yard long barrels easy. Only we knew that you had to line up exactly with the antenna from the coast guard station across the street to make the drop and we didn't tell anybody.
Vince Noir wrote:^ so your saying that by dumping rocks into the waves path, you effectively made the wave slow down enough for you to paddle into it ?
Im no expert in surf science , but that doesnt make any sense what so ever.....by making it shallower/giving something the waves to break over, your doing the opposite of what you set out to acheive
unless the wave suddenly hits the reef and reels off too fast, and what you did was make it shallower just before this point, so that it broke slow enough to get into the wave as it hit the natural reef
no personal offence, but i'd be highly skeptical that you and a mate would be able to do that by swimming rocks out..take alook at how long proper artifical construction projects take...
Prehaps you were always able to get into the wave in the first place ?
Noserope wrote: The break was essentially a close out that slapped over virtually all at once but not quite.
Noserope wrote: Our rock pile was out beyond the part of the wave that broke first. Our pile did not make it break differently, what it did was take the deep water outside the break and make it shallower in one single spot.
Noserope wrote:(Before they built the rock pile) The wave broke in about three feet of water. Out past that it immediately dropped to eight feet and that was too deep for the wave to stand up and start to break so it just all fell over too quick to get into. By piling rocks where it was eight feet deep until it turned six feet deep we made a point where the wave stood up taller preparing to break for a moment before it threw over when it came into the three foot ledge. This was all we needed to slide down the face, collect enough speed and turn right before the whole thing threw.
Noserope wrote:We didn't make the wave slow down, that takes more time but we did make it start to break.
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