Surf Science

For discussion of surf forecasting science and technology, wave science, weather and board mechanics or for any questions about the magicseaweed.com forecasts and software.

Surf Science

Postby thedeadly » Wed Feb 09, 2005 10:13 pm

just bought "surf science" by tony butt & paul russel

what an excellent book - the answers to all those nagging question especialy on "coastal geomorphology" :D although its just made my forcasting 2000% more difficult now - it was simple before LOL
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Postby kevchenco » Wed Feb 09, 2005 10:15 pm

it is good every surfer should have a copy
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Postby thedeadly » Wed Feb 16, 2005 10:55 pm

i love this book

having had nothing but NW swell for over a week i guessed that with the change to W swell that the usualy closing out watergate would peel more - it did - 2ft of peeling glass with the odd better set coming through every 10 - 15 mins
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Postby mouse » Thu Feb 17, 2005 2:52 pm

My copy of this book should have arrived at my house by now (or be at the local sorting office, boo!).
And I have bought Fit to Surf so I can adapt my exercise from back fixing to being a powerhouse in the water (actually I think it's going to be fairly similar: weights, yoga, core stability, swimming etc).
I need a bit of structure to make sure I'm doing things right, anyone got this book?
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Postby frameline » Thu Feb 17, 2005 3:18 pm

Yep it is a good one, lots of exercise ball stuff, and core strength training which is SO important, been using a modified core strength routine gathered from this and a few other books for about a year now. Combine it with yoga and you are good to go..
:D
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Postby mouse » Thu Feb 17, 2005 3:25 pm

coolio, I am doing pilates at the mo, so working on those core stability muscles, my pelvis is rubbishly unstable due to back problems...but I'm getting there.
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Postby dt83aw » Thu Feb 17, 2005 9:27 pm

what the hell is that "pirates" thing anyway...
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Postby mouse » Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:10 am

piRates (hee hee, that's what I call it too)=body conditioning, promotes physical harmony and balance. Its about strength, posture and core stability. The "powerhouse" - abdomen, lower back, and buttocks - is supported and strengthened, enabling the rest of the body to move freely.
Sort of like yoga, but much more focused on making sure you're using the right muscles to do things. It builds strength and flexibility without bulk.
I'm using it mainly to sort out: proper breathing, developing the muscles to let me hold my pelvis still (=less wiggly paddling), strong internal abs to support my spine and prevent overuse of lower back and to get more flexibility and strength around my thoracic vertebrae (where my scoliosis is).
I do yoga and weights as well. I only do about an hour of piRates a week, I never get bored in piRates, sometimes I get bored in yoga and when I'm swimming.

Have a google, lots of stuff on the interweb.
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Postby dt83aw » Fri Feb 18, 2005 3:01 pm

AARRRR!!!
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Postby [REZ] » Fri Feb 18, 2005 4:11 pm

This is also a great book

Image

It also doubles up as a great dust collector :? Must get into it again..not surf fit at all at the moment. :oops:
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Postby mouse » Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:22 pm

I have this book now and wowee is it brilliant, I think I will have to read it twice though because I am not that great on complicated science, you should have seen me struggling with the atmospheric chemistry unit in my MSc, my brain nearly exploded.

[edit] I have the surf science book, that is. Fit to surf is ok, I was hoping it would tell me about specific things like correct paddling technique...I have gotten all worried that I am using the wrong muscles for paddling recently. I will be able to write myself some 10-week plans and stuff, cool for me I need the motivation of a tick list to stick to any sort of structured regime :roll:
Last edited by mouse on Wed Feb 23, 2005 4:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby kevchenco » Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:36 pm

i have both those yoga books, i even bought the ball to go with it. They are pretty good

Unfortunately it did not last long and they are all dust gatherers now

I do try and do some of the exercises before going on a surf trip.
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Postby mikeg_jpr » Thu Feb 24, 2005 12:13 pm

where did you get the book from deadly i cant find it? :cry:
Why cant we just get a-long
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Postby mouse » Thu Feb 24, 2005 8:32 pm

I got mine from amazon, search for surf science...mine arrived in about 2 days, so they have it in stock
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Postby Di » Thu Feb 24, 2005 9:40 pm

I was just about to recomend the Surflex book and then the next post did that. i also have to fess up that it's been gathering dust for a wee whiles too.

will keep an eye out for a copy of Surf Science - it sound vg
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Postby Don Redondo » Thu Mar 31, 2005 12:48 pm

No need for these book. Just go to the beach, if there are waves then these is good. no need for book.
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Postby METH » Thu Mar 16, 2006 12:41 am

surf science is a top book and also read surf flex, only thing is dont know if i would take a swiss ball to the beach.....mmmmmm
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Postby purpleandy » Thu Mar 16, 2006 11:20 pm

absolutely loved reading surf science - very competently delivered to a broad range of readers. simplistic explanations without excessively dumbing it down, accessible in the areas you don't quite know but enough bite in the areas you do, good analogies and the confidence of delivery that only comes from someone with an excellent and realistic grasp of their specialism. the same kind of appeal as a short history of nearly everything by bryson - but with surf pics :D
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