Beach break consistancy......

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Beach break consistancy......

Postby Nesurfer » Sat Sep 18, 2010 7:56 pm

I recently had a conversation with a friend(a more experienced surfer) about wave consistancy at a beach break, he was saying that waves break on the same parts of the beach every time,meaning that a certain wave will be in the same spot day after day week after week no matter what. Is this true? I thaught the waves would change with the tides ifvthe sand formation changed..or am i just being a tottal knob? Any help would be appreciated.....peace.
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Re: Beach break consistancy......

Postby roberdy » Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:32 pm

your mate is speaking out of his arse, the banks on beach breaks are made of sand, which is fluid so they move about all the time. You might get banks that form in roughly the same place and stay there for a while but they will not be in exactly the same place week after week because of tides and swell etc. All it takes is a decent storm to move everything about, either for better or, as is often the case up here, for worse :(
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Re: Beach break consistancy......

Postby Black » Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:58 pm

^^ Too true and how it changes. Yet through the decades there's a familiar shape to the neighbourhood.
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Re: Beach break consistancy......

Postby thomas_rj » Sun Oct 03, 2010 10:23 pm

I think I would say that beaches are changing all the time, but very often the changes are just like the last time. Exactly what changes a beach depends on your location - in some locations, weather patterns means different kind of waves as season change. That definetly moves the sand to a different position. In other locations, moon phase is quite important. I live 10 floors up from the sand of one quite well known beach and having watched it for a year now I am just short of testifying that every time there is a new moon, the beach looks almost the same. At that moon phase, it is really not good for surfing as all the sand seems to be shuffled up onto the beach and the waves break about 1.5 meters out, sending all their energy right down on the sand. However, when the moon is in the opposite phase, I can give you a quite good prediction for where a rip current channel will form between two sand banks extending along the beach to each side. Then, if the waves come in moderate size and the common direction, there is decent surf to be had with waves opening up on the side of the sandbanks, with some extra distance if I am able to hit that rip current channel. Only at high tide I can ride directly across the sandbank. All this happens in loose sand, but it seems to stack up at the same location every time, after moving around a little.
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