What determines max rideable wave size for a beach?

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What determines max rideable wave size for a beach?

Postby AstroChris » Thu Sep 12, 2013 8:11 am

Hi, I am relatively new to surfing, i noticed that in the stormriders guide for each beach there are two numbers, the min and max rideable wave size. What is it about a beach that affects this?

Cheers Chris
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Re: What determines max rideable wave size for a beach?

Postby Philchapman » Tue Sep 17, 2013 10:05 am

Min = Do you have a longboard?
Max = How big are your bollocks?!

Seriously though, so many factors, but mainly with beach breaks it's a case of "is the swell big enough for a wave to break/peel?", or "Is it so big it's closing out?" (where the whole wave breaks at once/doesn't peel), which is mainly to do with the shape of the sand banks at any particular beach.

This book will tell you all you need to know;

http://www.surfscience.org/books/surf-science
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Re: What determines max rideable wave size for a beach?

Postby Chris F » Tue Sep 17, 2013 1:57 pm

What he said, although direction of swell can have an influence; a dead onshore swell can close out a beach, but even 10 degrees can make the same wave peel, so a bit of local kniowledge is required.
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