bakers wrote:Recently took up surfing and was sold a 7foot fish board. I am aprox 6'4" and weigh 96kg. Im getting into the water at every opportunity as I feel hooked. Every session ill get to my feet a few times but I feel like I should be getting up more often as the majority of the time I just drop out the back of the wave. Should I just keep on practicing or should I be looking into getting a longer board? Im asking because it sometimes feel like im whipping a dead horse, so should I cut my loses and start again with a new board or are my problems just general learner surfer problems. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
bakers wrote:Im feeling as if its my positioning and timing with catching the wave is the main problem. Ive tried putting more wieght towards the front of the board when im popping up which is great when im on the smaller waves but on the bigger waves itll usually cause quite an extreme nose dive.
Alwayzthekook wrote:There are no short cuts mate. It's all down to water time - and it takes a lot of time in the water! And it takes everybody a long time of not getting it right. Remember its not just about balance - its about speed, its about positioning, and its about timing. That's a lot of variables to all get right at the exact same instant, and it takes a lot of practice and a lot of time sitting in the water and learning to read the bumps. Oh, and developing surf fitness (which cant be found doing anything else really).
In very basic terms - you could get a longer, floatier board. You'll find that easier in the short-term, but it won't necesarily make things easier for you in the long-term. The smaller the board you learn on, the harder it will be in the short-term but you'll reap the benefits further down the line. (that wasn't even meant to be a pun! )
I would suggest that you relate it to how often you're going to be getting in the water.Let's say it takes 300 hours to become relatively competent (for example). How long will it take you to spend 300 hours in the sea with your board?
If you're not surfing often, get a bigger board - you'll have more fun. If you're planning on being in the water at least weekly (if not more) stick with your board.
Check me out with the big post... I'm not being distracted from the 3 essays I have to write at all!
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