by bombie » Mon Feb 28, 2011 6:36 pm
All of the following assumes you are riding on the green face of the wave and going forehand (ie chest facing the wave) (if not, then start by angling your board on take off so that instead of pointing straight at the beach (perpendicular to the breaking wave) you point along the direction that the wave is breaking).
First point your board at the trough of the wave, you can't bottom turn if you are in the top third of the wave (ie just riding along on the green face with the board in trim). Put a small amount of pressure on your heel, this will turn the board down the face to the trough of the wave. You will accelerate.
You need a bit of bend in your knees - you can't turn standing up with straight legs - so compress downward a bit.
Once you have gone down the face of the wave into the trough then rotate your body in the direction you want to go - ie look at where you want the top of the turn to be and rotate your front shoulder and arm toward that spot (which for you is your right shoulder and arm). At the same time as rotating your torso uncompress your legs (straighten them a bit) to apply weight and pressure to the inside rail. Applying more weight/pressure to the backfoot will cause the board to turn faster. You will be leaning into the wave.
Also try compressing/uncompressing in less exaggerated turns while travelling along the face of the wave, this won't change your direction as the board only rises and falls up the face of the wave and will generate speed - and you can use it to get around sections that crumble in front of you.