tired of going straight what am i doing wrong????

Any questions about learning to surf, or general questions about equipment, technique or improving your surfing.

tired of going straight what am i doing wrong????

Postby tomas377 » Mon Aug 20, 2012 1:18 am

so i surf in texas and ive never had a longboard so ive just been surfing shortboards and i was decent at it but cause of the summer i havent even been bothering getting out and surfing but even when i was i was just going straight toward the beach following the white water. well today at a local spot i went out and by the time i got out to the line up i was exhausted from paddling out so i guess i need to do some more homework(go out even on not so good quality days just so i dont get outta shape)haha. well yesterday the waves i did manage to catch i would try to turn to go along the face and the board would just turn over sideways. then i started to lean back and try to pivot but with as slow as i was going i couldnt get the wave to pick me back up... soooo thennnn i started to put pressure on my front foot to get some speed and then i would try to lean back and pivot on on my back foot or lean on the rails which would again cause the board to turn over or the wave passed me up so that wasnt working either. and sometimes when i would put weight on my front foot id speed but then id keep adding more pressure because id want more speed but then the front would go just go under.

im about 5'7.5'' tall and the board is a 6'3'' biscuit so any advice in general?
tomas377
 
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Re: tired of going straight what am i doing wrong????

Postby r896neo » Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:37 pm

I assume your surfing in the gulf in which case lower powered wind swell are probably the norm. In weaker swells like that getting a decent ride on a short board will be much harder work unless you can surf very well.

I would definately suggest getting hold of a minimal or even a long board until you start regularly riding down the line on unbroken waves. A bigger heavier board will carry itself much more than a short board giving you more time to popped up and set right once you catch a wave.

Once you have caught a decent few rides across on the bigger board the feeling of how to do it will be like riding a bike and you won;t forget it. Of course it will always need adjusting depending on board and conditions but you can then apply that experience to any board you like.

The motto is learning is easier and therefore quicker on a bigger board. For all of the reasons above and many more. And lastly No you are not an exception that will find a shortboard easier.
r896neo
 
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Re: tired of going straight what am i doing wrong????

Postby surf » Sun Aug 26, 2012 12:31 pm

Looking at what your saying, you need to follow your focus when turning, so once your up on your board surfing, take your front arm as your direction and follow it with your focus to make the turn. Id say get yourself booked in a surf camp, that way you can practice and learn from others, everyone makes mistakes, maybe your hitting that wall, but keep practicing. I went to Surf Star in Morocco and the instructor momo helped me out endlessly, having someone with direct, clear instructions telling you when to do what really helps its www.surfstarmorocco.com good luck with the turn!!
surf
 
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Re: tired of going straight what am i doing wrong????

Postby bboy02 » Thu Sep 27, 2012 8:33 pm

Hello!
There is a book that has just come out on Amazon for kindle that is full of tips and techniques to improve you surfing including how to make bottom turns to set up for riding along the face.....check out http://www.amazon.co.uk/Surfing-Tips-an ... 975&sr=1-1
bboy02
 
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