At Last

Any questions about learning to surf, or general questions about equipment, technique or improving your surfing.

At Last

Postby martski » Mon Nov 12, 2012 12:46 pm

After two years intermittent surfing have finally taken a big step forward. Yes, my pop up is dreadful, yes I have a permanent callous and cut on my knee from the one knee pop up. No, I cant duck dive. Yes, catching green waves are usually limited to waves in the sub 2 foot realm.
BUT, yesterday I took a step forward by popping up on the top of the lip (instead of scooting down to the trough and then trying), and yes, I did stay on my feet and yes I did drop down what seemed an enormous wall of water and put in a bottom turn and literally flew along the line...(ok so the massive wave was prob 3 foot max and my ride was under 5 seconds)...but what a rush.....Just as my frustration grows to a point where I feel it isn't worth keeping trying a little nudge is given to me and away I go again....
Thanks for listening....
martski
 
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 10:19 am

Re: At Last

Postby Philshoz » Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:21 pm

Nice one Martski, enjoy the stoke................... 8)
http://philshorrock.blogspot.fr/
Philshoz
 
Posts: 1864
Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2008 7:17 am
Location: Brittany

Re: At Last

Postby Poo Stance » Mon Nov 12, 2012 6:35 pm

It's the KKKKAAPPPOWWWW feeling :-D nice one bud. Can't wait to get me some of that again soon.
User avatar
Poo Stance
 
Posts: 3783
Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2005 2:07 pm

Re: At Last

Postby Paul C » Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:26 am

I know the feeling martski, we just have to keep practising :wink:
Paul C
 
Posts: 215
Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 3:25 pm

Re: At Last

Postby Chris F » Tue Nov 13, 2012 1:24 pm

First proper ride and it opens the mind. Now you will want that feeling again and again, and anything less isn't enough anymore.
Chris F
 
Posts: 6797
Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 2:13 pm
Location: Yabberdabberdeen

Re: At Last

Postby Steviesee » Tue Nov 13, 2012 1:56 pm

Chris F wrote:First proper ride and it opens the mind. Now you will want that feeling again and again, and anything less isn't enough anymore.


Yup, you're pretty much screwed, the path of your life has just altered...

Enjoy the ride!
Steviesee
 
Posts: 157
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:19 pm
Location: Scotland

Re: At Last

Postby Philshoz » Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:54 pm

Chris F wrote:First proper ride and it opens the mind. Now you will want that feeling again and again, and anything less isn't enough anymore.


Bit like heroin but cheaper.
http://philshorrock.blogspot.fr/
Philshoz
 
Posts: 1864
Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2008 7:17 am
Location: Brittany

Re: At Last

Postby martski » Tue Nov 13, 2012 4:40 pm

First white water wave...
First green wave...
First drop in and trim...
First...
All of them have kept me in Stokesville, think I am consigned to remain...Love it!
martski
 
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 10:19 am

Re: At Last

Postby swiggy » Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:00 pm

Just wait til you get barreled, surfing is magic
swiggy
 
Posts: 2942
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 1:54 pm
Location: Victoria, vancouver island canada

Re: At Last

Postby martski » Wed Nov 14, 2012 2:24 pm

Barrelled???? Reckon that will be quite a bit further down the line.... :lol: (see what I did there?).

Heroin analogy works for me, wife doesn't seem to understand why that after a good surf I am not contented enough to forget about it for a while. Instead, a good surf feeds the desire more and am planning the next dip....but I guess you guys know all about that 8)

Wished I hadn't waited until 39 to start.....better than 59 though....
martski
 
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 10:19 am

Re: At Last

Postby ATTMFKH » Thu Nov 15, 2012 2:49 pm

^^ He who dies with the biggest smile wins 8)
Are We Too Deep ...............
User avatar
ATTMFKH
 
Posts: 7797
Joined: Fri Aug 18, 2006 2:13 pm
Location: THE CULT of WHEY

Re: At Last

Postby dermo909 » Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:26 am

martski wrote: BUT, yesterday I took a step forward by popping up on the top of the lip (instead of scooting down to the trough and then trying), and yes, I did stay on my feet and yes I did drop down what seemed an enormous wall of water and put in a bottom turn and literally flew along the line...(ok so the massive wave was prob 3 foot max and my ride was under 5 seconds)...but what a rush.......


The same thing happened to me on Monday. Paddled out back and caught an overhead wave where I stalled at the top for a second and then flew down the face. I could'nt help but let out an involuntary scream as I went down the front of the wave! Usually waves that are that high cause me to wipe out but I managed to hold on to this one, turn into the face and trim along until the wave ran out! Unfortunately that was my 'last wave' so I had to go in.....half an hour and 4 or 5 waves later :lol:

I've only really started catching green waves this year so catching a wave like that was really exciting and terrifying at the same time! I knew if I wiped out I'd be screwed but luckily I did'nt!

Looking forward to getting at least a few more this weekend!
dermo909
 
Posts: 193
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2012 9:08 am

Re: At Last

Postby bakers » Sat Nov 17, 2012 6:21 pm

sounds like good times fella!!!
bakers
 
Posts: 274
Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2011 10:32 am


Return to Learn to Surf

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests