At Last

[martski]

After two years intermittent surfing have finally taken a big step forward. Yes, my pop up is dreadful, yes I have a permanent callous and cut on my knee from the one knee pop up. No, I cant duck dive. Yes, catching green waves are usually limited to waves in the sub 2 foot realm.
BUT, yesterday I took a step forward by popping up on the top of the lip (instead of scooting down to the trough and then trying), and yes, I did stay on my feet and yes I did drop down what seemed an enormous wall of water and put in a bottom turn and literally flew along the line...(ok so the massive wave was prob 3 foot max and my ride was under 5 seconds)...but what a rush.....Just as my frustration grows to a point where I feel it isn't worth keeping trying a little nudge is given to me and away I go again....
Thanks for listening....

[Philshoz]

Nice one Martski, enjoy the stoke...................

[Poo Stance]

It's the KKKKAAPPPOWWWW feeling nice one bud. Can't wait to get me some of that again soon.

[Paul C]

I know the feeling martski, we just have to keep practising

[Chris F]

First proper ride and it opens the mind. Now you will want that feeling again and again, and anything less isn't enough anymore.

[Steviesee]

First proper ride and it opens the mind. Now you will want that feeling again and again, and anything less isn't enough anymore.

Yup, you're pretty much screwed, the path of your life has just altered...

Enjoy the ride!

[Philshoz]

First proper ride and it opens the mind. Now you will want that feeling again and again, and anything less isn't enough anymore.

Bit like heroin but cheaper.

[martski]

First white water wave...
First green wave...
First drop in and trim...
First...
All of them have kept me in Stokesville, think I am consigned to remain...Love it!

[swiggy]

Just wait til you get barreled, surfing is magic

[martski]

Barrelled???? Reckon that will be quite a bit further down the line.... (see what I did there?).

Heroin analogy works for me, wife doesn't seem to understand why that after a good surf I am not contented enough to forget about it for a while. Instead, a good surf feeds the desire more and am planning the next dip....but I guess you guys know all about that

Wished I hadn't waited until 39 to start.....better than 59 though....

[ATTMFKH]

^^ He who dies with the biggest smile wins

[dermo909]

BUT, yesterday I took a step forward by popping up on the top of the lip (instead of scooting down to the trough and then trying), and yes, I did stay on my feet and yes I did drop down what seemed an enormous wall of water and put in a bottom turn and literally flew along the line...(ok so the massive wave was prob 3 foot max and my ride was under 5 seconds)...but what a rush.......

The same thing happened to me on Monday. Paddled out back and caught an overhead wave where I stalled at the top for a second and then flew down the face. I could'nt help but let out an involuntary scream as I went down the front of the wave! Usually waves that are that high cause me to wipe out but I managed to hold on to this one, turn into the face and trim along until the wave ran out! Unfortunately that was my 'last wave' so I had to go in.....half an hour and 4 or 5 waves later

I've only really started catching green waves this year so catching a wave like that was really exciting and terrifying at the same time! I knew if I wiped out I'd be screwed but luckily I did'nt!

Looking forward to getting at least a few more this weekend!

[bakers]

sounds like good times fella!!!