had rubbish surf (still better then good day at work)

[Black]

Fifteen minutes of driving hail in the face didn't help either.

I was also a victim of those downpours, painful @ times!

Today I shoulda stayed @ home & carried on watching the tennis. Had a shocker!!

When I woke up the next day I had a swollen eye, sure it was that hail caused it.

[KyleEvans]

Went to Hells Mouth today at 8am this morning on my new board and "had rubbish surf" due to fear!

I was really excited to go in today, the second time on my new board. It was high tide at the Mouth this morning and for those who don't know Hells Mouth; it's not a sandy beach it consists of large rocks, and when it's high tide the waves break very close to the beach. So, because of that I've found a fear of smashing my board into the rocks beneath the water. I'm guessing the fear is natural for anything as expensive as what a surfboard is, but will this fear go way?

I've moved down from a 7'4 MiniMal Take Off to a 6'6 7S Fuse, I'm also afraid of standing up on it, why!?

[henryg]

Got dropped in on on my first wave today and ended up landing on the fins of his or my own board (not sure which) and tore a 6inch by 6inch L-shaped hole in the arse of my wetsuit. Not good. Went back out in my 4mm, which i had luckily thrown in the car, and had some decent rides but the overriding sense was that this was a crap surf and I should have stayed in bed. Remember kids, look both ways before you take off!!

[skimmer2]

Last two trips out been disappointing.....waves look nice from the shore but when you get in there's no punch to them at all and even fizzle out just when they get to you. Shifting peaks and low sunshine right in yer eyes.......pish

[ATTMFKH]

^^ shoulda been down the road today

[skimmer2]

^^ shoulda been down the road today

Better bet is if I gave up this lark!

[ATTMFKH]

^6 The low sunshine bit nearly got me taken out yesterday..... some lassie camed charging right at me as I was paddling back out, she was fixed looking at the nose of her baord - I'm yelling go right, go right, missed my napper by 6 inches ..........

[skimmer2]

^6 The low sunshine bit nearly got me taken out yesterday..... some lassie camed charging right at me as I was paddling back out, she was fixed looking at the nose of her baord - I'm yelling go right, go right, missed my napper by 6 inches ..........

Bit of fisticuffs going on down there yesterday?

[ATTMFKH]

nah mate - was all cool, I did shout 'for fuck's sake' at her, she said 'sorry man, the sun was in my eyes'................. was all good, the Janitor even got to help her out her wetsuit True...

[skimmer2]

nah mate - was all cool, I did shout 'for fuck's sake' at her, she said 'sorry man, the sun was in my eyes'................. was all good, the Janitor even got to help her out her wetsuit True...

No---not you....was a rumour of a wee scrap down at Pease...but maybe a rumour.

[ATTMFKH]

never saw anything. Although the Janitor was calling folk into waves and shouting at the them , calling them diddies for missing them , then roaring & laughing - we had our own zone after a while

[skimmer2]

never saw anything. Although the Janitor was calling folk into waves and shouting at the them , calling them diddies for missing them , then roaring & laughing - we had our own zone after a while

troublemakers

[ATTMFKH]

never saw anything. Although the Janitor was calling folk into waves and shouting at the them , calling them diddies for missing them , then roaring & laughing - we had our own zone after a while

troublemakers

Was really funny though - I'm sick of sour faced surfers anyway , we had a right hoot - good waves & a great laugh , what else do you need .......

[manbearpig]

I did shout 'for fuck's sake' at her

try paddling out the way next time.

ha just sayin thats all

[ATTMFKH]

right

[dermo909]

A mate currently has my minimal so I had to use my longboard for this mornings surf. Not usually a problem but todays waves were 4/5ft and a bit messy. That size is at the limit of my ability/bravery and coupled with slightly messy conditions it made for an interesting surf.

I paddled out fine(150m from shore to what could be described as 'out back') but when I got out there I realised the waves were f'n massive. My heart was nearly bursting out of my chest looking at them and although I could have caught a few - I ended up just sitting there for half an hour before catching a few smaller ones back in.

To say I was scared shitless would be an understatement!

[wigsy]

New board just arrived (cheers superyuoyuo!), and I've got an ear infection.

Week's course of antibiotics, and no water time, when ALL my locals are firing.


Damnit.

[dixie]

gotta be better than this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYww-y8j71s

my nuts shrivelled just watching

[Vince Noir]

gotta be better than this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYww-y8j71s

my nuts shrivelled just watching

happened to watch this today...its sick

[Craivold]

Had a shocker today. Town end of the Ho was looking a bit busy this morn so went in further up the beach where it was a little more exposed, shape didn't look great but I thought 'if in doubt, paddle out'... it was sh@t and I was worse! Waves would go from fat to steep and wedgey then back to fat then close out, after an hour of that crap and one close out straight hander ridden I called it quits . Spotted this on the way in though which was mental, board added for scale;



Actually saw three porpoises cruising a bay further down the coast just before New Year so must be a few about the SW at the mo.

[dermo909]

^^^^^ 3 dead things just like that on my local beach for the last couple of weeks ^^^^^



2ft clean this morning but very hard to judge. You'd see the waves coming and they would peak up just nice but then nearly straight away they'd fatten up again and continue to the beach where they'd just close out. Moving in closer to where they were actually breaking would result in the wave invariably breaking on my head.

Some waves were caught but very little face time. A bit frustrating to say the least!

[Vince Noir]

classic east coast frustration

[ATTMFKH]

1st donation of 2013 to the Petrol Fairy

[danny1]

shite here an all

[Werwulf1919]

The whole winter on the east coast has been one of the worst i can remember...and that's saying something

[Vince Noir]

what is been, one decent clean swell in november but with offshores that got too strong throughout the day, and another that was half the expected size....grrrr

[philo]

aye, spent more time on my snowboard than anything

[Philshoz]

Very dissapointed with my surf this am.

I was so looking forward to getting a few today but the COLD, jeez (flat battery in the vest didn't help) so out of shape also. That and the off-shore howling........

Need to find a board with a few more litres to help beat the added mils of neoprene that are slowing me right down.....glum, to say the least.

Hey-ho let's see what tomorrow brings.

[surfrat]

despite the big forecast it was very average and cold in north devon today. had one surf at a very inconsistent and busy croyde then a better one at home on high tide. no sign of chunky overhead sets that MSW promised.....shame really

[Craivold]

Need to find a board with a few more litres to help beat the added mils of neoprene that are slowing me right down.....glum, to say the least.

I didn't surf much last winter (in the UK at least) so I'd almost forgotten what it was like to wear the full winter get up but I'm amazed how much heavier you feel in the water, I reckon a 5mm, boots, gloves & hood ringing wet has to add 5kg+ to your weight - it's almost a case for needing a different set of boards for the winter! I've paddled and missed a fair few waves this winter on my lower volume boards because of this (and my lyrical crapness), foam is my friend now I reckon.