Rikds1 wrote:Come on, somebody must have the definitive version of how a surfer assesses wave height. I was out a few weeks ago and the waves were big (I sail oceans and race dinghies, I have seen big waves!). Talking to a hotshot afterwards he reckoned them to be 3ft! He said it was a measure from the lip to the "bottom". Another guy said it was a measure looking at the back of the wave (you can't see that unless you let the wave go and then what's the point).
I measure waves from crest to trough (the flat bit in front of the wave before it starts rising), this seems right.
When paddling out through biggish waves I try to visualise how many times my height would fit onto the unbroken face thus I know if a wave is 6ft more or less. I have even tried standing on a longboard in front of a wave to see if I could see over it!
What do all you more experienced people think??
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