Long and Thin or short and Fat......

Any discussion on shaping, designing, repairing and riding surfcraft of any type or shape. Also a good place to ask the 'what board should I buy?' question.

Long and Thin or short and Fat......

Postby wannabesurfer2003 » Wed Mar 11, 2020 11:40 am

So I am 44 now, heavier than I have ever been previously (94 kgs) and I work away for several weeks at a time meaning I have limited time in water and sporadic periods of surf, I have been surfing on and off for around 19 years but with quite a few breaks from it due to work, family commitments, kids etc. I consider myself an advanced beginner to intermediate on my very best day and have spent most of my surfing time riding longboards but the last few years attempting to progress on shorter boards (fat lad short boards).....

I have tried Firewire sweet potato 6'3, chumlee 6'5" and currently an Evo 6'4" which all catch loads of waves but I struggle to get out in any kind of bigger surf as they are all high volume and difficult (or impossible) to duck dive at 6 ft plus, 22-23" wide and thick as a whale omelette! If I get lucky and get out back these boards are difficult (for me at least) to ride well on bigger / steeper waves. I recently had a few waves on a friend's board out in Morocco in head high waves at a beach break, 7'2" x 21"x 2.75", it had a decent amount of nose and tail rocker and was foiled to a point I wouldn't usually consider for one of my boards. It was easier for me to duck dive while I was paddling out through the white water, felt stable and easy to catch waves on and I was still able to makes turns and throw it around a bit. That said it was a good bit steeper / faster surf than the majority of the waves I will surf back here in the UK. So here is my question:

What are peoples opinion for an "everyday board" to get maximum amount of waves but remain able to progress and have a decent amount of performance and agility? Should I go longer and keep it thin-ish and not too thick, or go short wide and thick? Mostly surf North Coast of Cornwall with a few trips to North & South coast of Devon.

Appreciate opinions or advice from one and all. :-)
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Re: Long and Thin or short and Fat......

Postby buttholesurfer » Tue Apr 07, 2020 12:40 am

Lost Smooth Operator is probably what your after, early entry, still duckdive it and the thing turns.
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