Board advice for a friend

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Board advice for a friend

Postby thatistheway » Mon Aug 03, 2015 6:29 pm

Trying to improve my friend's surfing ability by offering some board choice advice, but wondered what you guys/gals thought.

He is about 6ft 1 and 15 stone, not that fit and mostly rides a 9'4ft , 22' by 23' thick longboard. Surfs everyday or so for the last few months, Basically he rides the white water. Which is fine, but he wants to get out back and ride the glass. I said he really needs to change the boards he rides. He has two other boards: an 8ft by 22' Roger Cooper Mini Mal, and for some unknown reason (future use apparently) a Down the Line fish (well, a sorta fish) 7' 2"x 201/4" x 2 5/8.

The main problem is that he cannot get outback to the line up. This is the main barrier to his learning curve, and surfing experience. He is not going to get to the standard he wants by spending everyday catching white water.

Both the longboard and Mini Mal are far too buoyant and will not duck dive. I know you can turtle roll but my advice is get a board that you can duck dive. The fish will duck dive like a fish. I mean the thing is beautiful, he can sink the board about 2ft under and just glide under waves, but, he cannot stand on the board, so the only board he can get to the line-up on will probably prove pretty dangerous, and disheartening for him - don't want him to give up just yet.

I think he should go for a hybrid/fun board. Something around 6ft 7' (so he can still lie on the board), with 22' width (he is use to this width on the longboard so pop up should not be too much of an issue) and say 3' thickness (help the paddle out and catching waves). My main concern is that he will not be able to duck dive the board properly due to its thickness and buoyancy. I don't want him to try and duck dive the board at an angle (trying not to complicate things further). What are you thoughts generally and on the buoyancy issue?

I have seen a few suitable boards on MSW: such as the Fourth Doofer or Fourth Chilli Bean.

He is kind of relying on me for advice, so I am hoping to get some good thoughts from this forum that will all contribute to him getting his first glass ride at some point in the future. Thanks for your help.
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Re: Board advice for a friend

Postby Jory » Fri Aug 07, 2015 1:57 pm

What he needs to do is paddle out back, on the 9'4, turtle rolling if necessary or not if its a small day.

There's no reason he needs a new board, I'm 10 stone and I can paddle a 9'6 x 23 x 3 longboard out at a beach break on a head high day, it just takes timing a lull and perseverance.

If you think he's going to struggle on the fish then he will struggle on a fun board at 6'7.

The best advice you can give him is to persevere and to pick smaller days that are an easier paddle, or to drive to a spot that has an easier paddle out. Buying shiny new things isn't the answer as much fun as it is.
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Re: Board advice for a friend

Postby Black » Fri Aug 07, 2015 5:33 pm

Agree with Jory. Buying a different board is not going to give him experience which is what's lacking. Where is he surfing that he can't paddle outback on a slack day and sit there with the other 150 longboarders?
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