Good surf vs. Bad surf

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Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Leven » Mon Sep 26, 2016 4:49 pm

How is it possible to go from surfing really well (for me!) for a few sessions, to surfing like an absolute clown for a few sessions? Nothing has changed, similar conditions, same boards, same wetsuits......
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Black » Mon Sep 26, 2016 7:55 pm

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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby future primitive » Mon Sep 26, 2016 11:34 pm

Glad to hear it's not just me that suffers from this
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Kenny » Tue Sep 27, 2016 4:33 am

Situation normal ..... which always leads me to marvel at how people can earnestly discuss things like switching fins. Always comes as a complete surprise on leaving the water to found I have lost one.
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Black » Tue Sep 27, 2016 8:30 am

Kenny wrote:Situation normal ..... which always leads me to marvel at how people can earnestly discuss things like switching fins. Always comes as a complete surprise on leaving the water to found I have lost one.
:lol: I sometimes check mine after a wave thinking I must have lost one due to random board behaviour. Surfed with loose fins but never lost one, you should check them more often.
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby ATTMFKH » Tue Sep 27, 2016 9:13 am

Leven wrote:How is it possible to go from surfing really well (for me!) for a few sessions, to surfing like an absolute clown for a few sessions? Nothing has changed, similar conditions, same boards, same wetsuits......


Now you're thinking about it too much :lol: :lol: :lol:

Unconscious competence ........... it's the way forward :mrgreen:

I go from Kelly Slater to Kuk Slater in my own head every session - couple of comedy dismounts at the weekend - went down with the lip on one and another I seemed to run backwards off my Log :? :lol:

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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby JayP » Tue Sep 27, 2016 11:35 am

I read somewhere that it is precisely this that makes it so addictive. The fact that you can't replicate sessions or waves. That so many things affect it but that it is the constant change that makes it addictive. As for me - I mainly surf like a kook. Every now and then I have a wave that makes me think I'm kelly slater then its back to business as normal! If it wasn't for those rare bastard kelly slater ones I'd have chucked it in years ago!
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Leven » Tue Sep 27, 2016 3:11 pm

Ahhhh aaaa....Glad it's not just me! 10 days ago I was making every drop (some really late ones too), and just surfing really well. Last couple of sessions, I've barely bloody stood up!!
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby mountain man » Wed Sep 28, 2016 8:25 pm

I think that's the difference between a good surfer and a REALLY good surfer. The best guys never seem to have an off day whereas for the majority of us it can be one day good, next day kook.
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Black » Wed Sep 28, 2016 10:19 pm

mountain man wrote:I think that's the difference between a good surfer and a REALLY good surfer. The best guys never seem to have an off day whereas for the majority of us it can be one day good, next day kook.

Yes, agreee.
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Chris F » Thu Sep 29, 2016 7:44 am

Thing is these guys are so fucking good, even when they are performing at 60% they still kick it. Whereas if I'm at 60% it means I'm not even managing to paddle out.

I just put it down to a yin and yang thing, you have to have shitty days occasionally as they make you appreciate it when you are on your game that much more.
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Archy_is_God » Wed Oct 05, 2016 11:05 am

Nah, they also have shit days... difference is that they just get out and go and do something else for a bit before having another crack, whilst the rest of us insist on having a battle until we have a good wave (which inevitably never happens)
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Philshoz » Wed Oct 05, 2016 6:24 pm

Love this post Leven, missed it last week 'cause I was in Devonia..

Agree with everything said, we live to replicate those magic sessons, don't we?

Early part of this year my surfing was so bad I felt like packing it in. This forum has helped me get through those negative times, I perservered and this Autumn I have been enjoying some truly magic days, feeling like my surfing is as good as it has ever been. I just want to carry on as long as I can, knowing that at 61 those days are numbered. My stoke level could not be higher, believe me. Last night was a great example, two fantastic walled up lefts and plenty of smaller fun waves.

Long may it continue :-D :-D
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Black » Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:07 pm

Philshoz wrote:Love this post Leven, missed it last week 'cause I was in Devonia..

Agree with everything said, we live to replicate those magic sessons, don't we?

Early part of this year my surfing was so bad I felt like packing it in. This forum has helped me get through those negative times, I perservered and this Autumn I have been enjoying some truly magic days, feeling like my surfing is as good as it has ever been. I just want to carry on as long as I can, knowing that at 61 those days are numbered. My stoke level could not be higher, believe me. Last night was a great example, two fantastic walled up lefts and plenty of smaller fun waves.

Long may it continue :-D :-D

Love you & your sentiment - been feeling similar recently - had some demons assail myself but on the other side my wobbly old git manoeuvres are actually a gift!
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Leven » Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:45 pm

Haha! Glad to hear it's not just me!

It's funny, I reckon I can actually link surfing well to (surprise surprise) laying off the booze and chin food a bit, losing a bit of weight, regular yoga/swimming and warming up beforehand....who'd of thought?! I also surf WAY better when it's clean, and struggle a bit when it's bumpy....
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Re: Good surf vs. Bad surf

Postby Black » Wed Oct 05, 2016 10:13 pm

Boots, gloves, hood and thick rubber suit mark a downward trend we need to compensate for and adjust expectation.
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